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Finger of Fate Free
5.12+ YDS 7c French 28 Ewbanks IX UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British R
Avg: 3.5 from 2
votes
Routes in The Titan
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Finger of Fate T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2+ |
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Finger of Fate Free T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R |
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Gimp Warfare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 |
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Jade Gate T A4 |
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Lone Wolf (VI- A6) T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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Naked Lunch T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4 R |
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Sundevil Chimney 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 |
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SunDevil Chimney Free T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c X |
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World's End 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A4 X |
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| Type: | Trad, 9 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | Pete Robins and Ben Bransbury |
| Page Views: | 2,858 total · 38/month |
| Shared By: | Casey Elliott on Nov 14, 2018 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
A few people have asked me to add this separately from the Aid climb of the finger.
P1: straightforward 5.11
P2: tricky off the start, sustained. Place pro after you use the pin scars otherwise it will be much harder 5.12 or E6.
P3: tricky off the belay as well,sustained 5.12 or E6 (P2, P3 and P8 are the most sustained climbing)
P4: The roof- a good fingerlock between the fixed tricams leads to a hard mantle. Easy climbing follows with poor pro. 5.12 E5
P5: Flaring chimney that you can protect with a #4 5.10
P6: Traverse around the duck 5.3
P7: Pinscar boulder problem in the mud seam leads to easy climbing, then a tricky mantle. Good pro the entire pitch 12d (the BP felt V6-7 to us)
P8: Strange blobs lead to a few hard moves on slopers and bad feet. Continue left in the crack to good rock. 5.12+ Good updated bolts and exposure make this pitch one of the best
P9: Scramble to the summit 5.4
After working sundevil chimney I realized the rock on finger of fate is actually pretty dang solid with a light dusking of choss or sand on top.
P1: straightforward 5.11
P2: tricky off the start, sustained. Place pro after you use the pin scars otherwise it will be much harder 5.12 or E6.
P3: tricky off the belay as well,sustained 5.12 or E6 (P2, P3 and P8 are the most sustained climbing)
P4: The roof- a good fingerlock between the fixed tricams leads to a hard mantle. Easy climbing follows with poor pro. 5.12 E5
P5: Flaring chimney that you can protect with a #4 5.10
P6: Traverse around the duck 5.3
P7: Pinscar boulder problem in the mud seam leads to easy climbing, then a tricky mantle. Good pro the entire pitch 12d (the BP felt V6-7 to us)
P8: Strange blobs lead to a few hard moves on slopers and bad feet. Continue left in the crack to good rock. 5.12+ Good updated bolts and exposure make this pitch one of the best
P9: Scramble to the summit 5.4
After working sundevil chimney I realized the rock on finger of fate is actually pretty dang solid with a light dusking of choss or sand on top.
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