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Routes in The Beach
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Acapulco T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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AKA Beach Surprise T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Beach Break T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Beach Buzz T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Beast & The Beauty T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Crack Slabbath T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Fatty on the Beach T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hail of a Beach T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Hollowing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Itsy Bitsy Teenie Weenie T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Kelley Route 10 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Kelley Route 12 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Kelley Route 14 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Kelley Route 8 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Kelly Route 11 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rip Curl T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Shark Bait T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Skinny Dip T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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State of Becoming T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Tenacity T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Tomahawk T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Unknown T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Unknown twin crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unnamed 5.10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unnamed 5.11 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Waikiki T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Jay Smith, Mark Hesse |
| Page Views: | 1,841 total · 24/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Mackall on Nov 13, 2018 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities!
Details
2025 Raptor Avoidance Areas. blm.gov/announcement/blm-as…
Map of closed areas: blm.gov/visit/indian-creek-…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Map of closed areas: blm.gov/visit/indian-creek-…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Hot dang! Straight-in hands to fists classic splitter/ flake to the first anchors at 60'; crumbling, thin, bouldery, and scary past two bolts to the second at 80'. Bottom set of anchors after the splitter (which most will likely do) makes it .10+ or so, heading to the second set puts it in the full-value .11+ range. It appears many holds have broken (or will soon do so) on the early boulder problem of this second "pitch", and it may be far harder than it once was. I for one felt this section to be waaaaay harder than the suggested .11- unless I was truly missing something. Worth doing purely for the splitter.
Historical note: Original route did go to the second set. If you wanna keep it OG, fire it up.
Historical note: Original route did go to the second set. If you wanna keep it OG, fire it up.
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