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Routes in Lower Wall
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A Cut Above the Rest S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Approach Route S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Bucking horse S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Casanova S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Chawesome Corner S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Conception S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Dark Dance, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Dark Half, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Deal With It S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Deal With It Wet S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Drink Girl Drunk S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Duck Bill S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Eidolons S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Fresh Cut S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Get to the Choppa S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Go ask Alice S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Gumbino Invasion S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Hickory Dickory Dock S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Ice Cream Head Direct S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Illy Down S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Justine S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Kaizen S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Keys in the Car S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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La Part Maudite S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Last Dance S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Last Stop 305 Bus S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Lose Yourself S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Naissance de le Femme S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Nemo S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Neoconstructionist S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Nickle Bag S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Nitro S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Nitro Light S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Nyctophobia S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Old School S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Once or Twice S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Original Dogs S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Pandora S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Pluvial Power S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Shin to the Dome S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Sol Food S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sport Yoga S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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SR 16 S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Subbacultcha S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Teva’s and Tan lines S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Underestimated S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Wet Lust S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Where's Mom? S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 2 pitches |
| FA: | S. Milton |
| Page Views: | 596 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | JS BC on Nov 5, 2018 · Updates |
| Admins: | Dave Rone, Tom Jones, Richard Rose, Rhys Beaudry |
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Description
Start up the right leaning badger crack to a ledge (5.7). Head up the face through 2 bolts of near vertical climbing to a sloping ledge - take the left branch here. Pull an uncomfortably thin and sharp boulder off the sloping ledge to gain the main ledge below the headwall.
Big moves on good holds (~12c) gets you to a rest below the last bolt on a big block. Your next hold is that flake way up and right. The standard thought process is "I will absolutely not dyno" until you touch the crimp option and settle on "okay, massive dyno it is."
A few big moves on good holds take you to a clipping bucket above the anchor.
Originally went at 5.12d with an artificial hold bolted on that let you skip the dyno. Chopped after the proper FFA.
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