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Routes in The Aguerd Cioch
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Do I make you thorny? T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Scorpion out looking for a little tail T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Eric Bluemn, Ro DJ 10/24/2018 |
| Page Views: | 662 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Eric Bluemn on Oct 30, 2018 |
| Admins: | Angelique Brown, TJ Brumme |
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Description
On the east side of the formation, locate the wide crack/chimney that starts behind a small rock buttress.
P1: 40m 4b Climb the face to the right of the chimney, then move into the crack as it narrows towards the corner. Pull through the small bulge (crux) and then continue up to the ledge at the top of the corner (optional belay). Above the ledge, continue up the easy (-) slabs to a belay behind a large boulder just before the wall steepens again.
P2: 40m 4b Climb above the belay towards another large ledge (optional belay). At the ledge, climb the crack at the base of a left-facing corner to reach the top of a block that houses a very inconveniently placed thorn bush. Navigate the bush, then ascend the face behind it while traversing left across a vegetated gully. After the gully is more good face climbing to the top of the buttress.
This route has generally outstanding rock and very enjoyable climbing. It tends to be in the shade in the afternoon, making it a good option for when the south/west face of the Cioch starts to bake.
P1: 40m 4b Climb the face to the right of the chimney, then move into the crack as it narrows towards the corner. Pull through the small bulge (crux) and then continue up to the ledge at the top of the corner (optional belay). Above the ledge, continue up the easy (-) slabs to a belay behind a large boulder just before the wall steepens again.
P2: 40m 4b Climb above the belay towards another large ledge (optional belay). At the ledge, climb the crack at the base of a left-facing corner to reach the top of a block that houses a very inconveniently placed thorn bush. Navigate the bush, then ascend the face behind it while traversing left across a vegetated gully. After the gully is more good face climbing to the top of the buttress.
This route has generally outstanding rock and very enjoyable climbing. It tends to be in the shade in the afternoon, making it a good option for when the south/west face of the Cioch starts to bake.
Location
From the parking at the intersection, walk north up the road to the first hairpin. From the hairpin locate a faint trail that leads towards the minor rock outcrop at the base of the east face. Go around the right side of the outcropping to avoid aggressive vegetation and find the base of the wide crack.
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