Empire State Building

Approach: 1h from the Torino hut, 2h from Aiguille du Midi
The start is on the right side of the Pilier Rouge (Red Pillar). Climb a few large unstable boulders to get to the R0 platform.

- Glacier gear
- 2 sets of C4 camalots up to n°3. blue
- 1 set of C3 from 0, or X4 .1 .2 .3
- 1 camalot C4 n°4. can be useful (though not vital) for the P4 crack.
- 1 set of nuts
- 10-12 quickdraws of which 3-4 composed of a long sling

Pitch1 (45m 5.10c): From the starting platform, head left to an easy cracked slab, leading upwards right, which ends at a wide, somewhat unappealing corner, «bolt and quicklink» on the left. Climb the large corner directly on the right. One hard move (6b, bolt), then the climbing becomes easier, though it remains tricky due to the rock quality. R1 to the right at the top of the corner.

Pitch2 (40m 5.10d): From R1, climb a cracked wall to the right which comes up against a roof, bolt. Traverse right under the roof and continue through some crack systems, bolt. Make a quick turn to the left followed by a short traverse to the right to reach a finger crack, powerful at first, then easier, which leads to R2.

Pitch3 (40m 5.12c/d): The compact sections of the pitch are bolted. However, bring a few C4’s along; 1 each up to n°1 red, and a few C3’s, for the end of the pitch. From R2, keep going up the crack above and reach the edge of the ridge, shift to the right of the ridge and come back to the left at the level of a roof. Keep climbing the little crack heading upwards left, very intense (5.12c/d). Keep going straight above the platform which follows (bolt) and take a short traverse leftwards to reach the cracked corner spiced up by a a few shelves (bolt). R3 is in the crack.

Pitch4 (40m 5,11b): From R3, climb the easy crack above and reach the wider, at first slightly overhanging crack. Gorgeous! Keep going slightly upwards left through the crack which becomes easier and reach a large quartz vein (bolt). Follow this vein towards the right to the edge, a little tricky. R4 on the edge.

Pitch5 (30m 5.12b): From R4, it’s simple; the pitch follows the edge. Bolts are fixed, no need to weigh yourself down with cams The climbing is sometimes powerful, but mostly technical, a bit committing (one move of compulsory 5.11b), it is also quite subtle and requires good reading to onsight. A rare pitch, splendid.

Pitch6 (30m 5.12a): A copycat pitch of P5, but less intene, also bolted. From P5, climb the starting wall on the left, intense. Then traverse right and get to the edge again. P6 and rappels after an easy section.