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Routes in Northwest Face
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Cornercopia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Charted Waters T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Riptide T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Rogue Wave T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Steamboat Captain's Dream, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Stone Soup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 |
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Siren's Call T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Full Steam Ahead T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Maiden Voyage T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lost at Sea T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Torpedo T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Batten Down The Hatches T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Red Sky at Night T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Forbidden Slab TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Piracy T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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False Prophets T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Pleasure Cruise T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pioneer/Iron Spike Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Genesis T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Winters Passage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Burning Calves T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Head Case T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Siege Tactics T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dorian's Dilemma T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Jackie Treehorn's Jungle Gym of Joyous Delights T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1 |
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Gitmo Love Machine T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Fireballs T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Jim Opdyke P1 2000, Jeff Thomas P2, J. Thomas & Rayce Boucher P3, Aug-15-2011 |
| Page Views: | 1,052 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Adam Baylor on Oct 28, 2018 · Updates |
| Admins: | Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Access Issue: CLOSURES: South and East Faces (NW & W Faces Remain Open)
Details
The east face is closed to climbing year-round due to possible sensitive/endangered plant species.
The NW face and West face routes remain open.
See Closure section below for more details.
Description
Genesis follows a corner and low-angle slabs and ledges to Big Tree Ledge.
P1 5.8, 30m, 2 bolts - Ascend the slab by climbing the lefthand corner using edges and ledges to find the easiest terrain. There are good nut slots on the side walls for protection. The crux is a low-angle section after the second bolt and before the final anchor ledge. Look for small nut placements near an old pin scar or even use a Ball Nut! There are several good nut and cam placements between the bolts.
P2 5.10a, 25m 6 bolts - Move left of the main buttress and step up to reach the first bolt. Continue up the left side of the buttress until able to step right following good edges. Continue climbing up thin smears and edges past more bolts to a blocky alcove. Easier climbing from the alcove leads to a bolted belay station just above a large Douglas Fir tree; this is Big Tree Ledge.
P3 5.9, 35m 5 bolts - Move right from the belay and around the nose of the buttress until you can see the first two bolts. The first bolt is somewhat hidden around the far side of the arete. Climb the buttress past the first two bolts on thin holds until on a large ledge. Step up and right and follow the edge of the slab past two more bolts to an overlap. Continue along the left side of the slab to the large Douglas Fir tree. The runout from the last bolt is about 50' or so on increasingly easier ground.
Rappel the route.
Location
You can approach by following the climbers' trail along the base of the NW Face from the parking lot. After ~100 yards and past the large arching roof feature, you'll ascend a small hill. On the other side of the hill, you'll find a large flat boulder. Continue along the wall another 50-60' until you find a relatively clean slab rising between mossy and vegetated sections.
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