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Quasimodo

5.8, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2.5 from 11 votes
FA: Chris Beauchamp
W Virginia > Eastern WV > Smoke Hole Canyon > Guide Wall > Ninja Wall

Description

Shimmy your way of the low chimney up to the first bolt. Alternatively, you can make the slightly harder face and stemming moves up to the first bolt. Continue up the chimney to the base of the roof. Clip the bolt inside of the roof and the bolt on the roof with a should length runner. I recommend back cleaning the lower bolt to help avoid heinous rope drag at the crux.

Traverse out from under the roof on great holds out to the right. Pull the final move on blind hands to an odd stance to clip the anchors.

**Currently there is a hollow flake that is used at the lip of the roof to clip the anchors. This will come off one day. Highly recommend that this gets cleaned before this line sees more traffic.**

Location

The obvious low chimney and large high roof just right of CU Rodeo.

Protection

6 bolts and 2 bolt chain anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Quasimodo Chimney. Recommend back cleaning the bolt marked with the blue x.
[Hide Photo] Quasimodo Chimney. Recommend back cleaning the bolt marked with the blue x.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Keith Baker
 
[Hide Comment] Fun climb until we saw the death flake at the top. Not worth doing until that is cleaned Oct 19, 2018
Mike Gray
Smoke Hole Canyon
[Hide Comment] The route was put up by Connecticut climber Chris Beauchamp. If you'd like to let him know about the death flake, which was left at the time of FA, his email is

me@christopherbeauchamp.com Apr 9, 2021
Christopher Beauchamp
New Haven, CT
[Hide Comment] Honestly I was a bit surprised at the initial comment but thought perhaps we had missed something so I went out to the Ninja wall last year specifically to address this. I climbed the route twice with a big-ole-hammer in search of the offending death flake but was unable to locate it. I did knock off a few very small lose bits and cleaned some gravel off the ledge under the roof but that was the extent of my findings. Also I'd offer that a runner or chained draws under roof eliminates the need for any back cleaning, but concede this is better cleaned on TR. Jun 3, 2021