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Unshackled

5.13b, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 4 from 16 votes
FA: Equipped by Doug Reed; FA: Greg Kottcamp
Alabama > Little River Ca… > Unshackled

Description

This is as good as Southern sandstone sport climbing gets.  A steep, eye-catching line with perfect rock, and engaging moves that don't let up until you clip the chains.  A great test of power-endurance.

Scramble up the pillar then follow good holds to a short crimp section before a good rest below the first crux.  Cast into a fingery V6 boulder problem involving sequential slopey edges and a long move to a decent one-pad edge.  Grab another marginal rest in the horizontal break below the next roof.  Don't celebrate yet.  Another V6ish boulder problem with long moves between small edges take you over the roof to the anchors.

Savor this one.  It's one of the best in LRC if not the entire South.

Location

Just right of Area of Doubt.

Protection

Bolts and a two bolt anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Unshackled
[Hide Photo] Unshackled
Mike Moore pulling through the perfect crimps on the face crux of Unshackled
[Hide Photo] Mike Moore pulling through the perfect crimps on the face crux of Unshackled
Unshackled Hands
[Hide Photo] Unshackled Hands

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Taylor Roy
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.13b
[Hide Comment] Nice video of this route at:

vimeo.com/253096701 Oct 31, 2018
Nathan Devan
Huntsville, AL
 
[Hide Comment] Bad video of this route at:

youtube.com/watch?v=RYk_aSX…

also no hands Dec 21, 2020
bernard wolfe
birmingham, al
[Hide Comment] Doug Reed/Maurice Reed route Jan 31, 2021
Zach Buecker
Chattanooga, TN
[Hide Comment] The three nylon perma's on this were looking pretty rough on 12/5/23 and the oval quick links are about half worn through. Maybe back these things up if your whipping or if some kind soul is headed that way with the knowledge/gear to replace them...thanks Dec 17, 2023