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Routes in Unshackled
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Area of Doubt S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Area Unshackled S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Back in the Day S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Big Cat S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Casper S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Dickel S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Dobb on my Knob S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Dobbotomy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Dogtown S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Exploding Boy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Gentleman, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Gumby Bears S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hot Taaka S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Iron Mike S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Julio S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Lone Wolf aka Redneck Girls in Love S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mini Fridge S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Movie Star S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Not My Problem S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Ron's Route S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Shepatitis S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Too Short S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Unshackled S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Unshackled Direct S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Unshackled the Movie S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Zamphir S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Zamshackled S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Equipped by Doug Reed; FA: Greg Kottcamp |
| Page Views: | 2,879 total · 38/month |
| Shared By: | Taylor Roy on Oct 17, 2018 · Updates |
| Admins: | Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend |
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Description
This is as good as Southern sandstone sport climbing gets. A steep, eye-catching line with perfect rock, and engaging moves that don't let up until you clip the chains. A great test of power-endurance.
Scramble up the pillar then follow good holds to a short crimp section before a good rest below the first crux. Cast into a fingery V6 boulder problem involving sequential slopey edges and a long move to a decent one-pad edge. Grab another marginal rest in the horizontal break below the next roof. Don't celebrate yet. Another V6ish boulder problem with long moves between small edges take you over the roof to the anchors.
Savor this one. It's one of the best in LRC if not the entire South.
Scramble up the pillar then follow good holds to a short crimp section before a good rest below the first crux. Cast into a fingery V6 boulder problem involving sequential slopey edges and a long move to a decent one-pad edge. Grab another marginal rest in the horizontal break below the next roof. Don't celebrate yet. Another V6ish boulder problem with long moves between small edges take you over the roof to the anchors.
Savor this one. It's one of the best in LRC if not the entire South.
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