VF Stella Alpina - free

Interesting thoughtful climbing in varied rock situations on fairly sound and mostly unpolished dolomite rock (similar to limestone).

But a lot of approach labor for that climbing (unless the Lift is operating, which it rarely does in summer), and much of that approach is not so scenic.

As a complete outing continuing on to Monte Agner summit, or at least to reach a normally-chosen descent route, the ratio of climbing fun sound rock ... versus ... labor + unpleasant steep looseness gets pretty low.

Stopping at the top of the main VF climbing, then down-climbing the route (perhaps with some short rappels) on an uncrowded day, improves the ratio, still not inviting (see below under Statistics).
. . . After that could make a side-trip (requires crossing some snow/ice) to do the first main clmbing section of VF Canalone, then down-climb that before returning to Parking - improves the ratio (see Statistics).

What would make this route attractive is to fInd a rare lucky day when the ski lift was operating in summer season would also surely increase the ratio.

"free"? This is a Via Ferrata route with a steel cable and other fixed hardware for Protection and/or Aid. The point of this MP Route description is to climb it "free", with hands and feet directly on the rock, not using the cable or other hardware for Aid (but likely still clipping the cable for Protection).

. . . If instead climbing with full use of hardware for Aid, difficulty likely would feel like full class 5 rock-climbing, say around 5.4. If don't know or see some tricks for exploiting the fixed hardware, likely some segments would feel harder than 5.4.

For lots more detail about this route, see print guidebooks:
* Via Ferratas of the Italian Dolomites: volume 2 : by John Fletcher + Graham Smith (Cicerone)
. . . (pretty helpful for this route, except for parking).

* Klettersteigführer Dolomiten-Südtirol-Gardasee : by Axel Jentzsch-Rabik, Andreas Jentzsch, Dieter Wissekal (AlpinVerlag)
. . . (much key info is in numeric/symbolic form for those who don't read much German, and there is an English-language overview for this route).

. . . and . . .
- - > this Trip Report on MP

Directions: Follow the steel cable. One or two sequences around 5.9 or harder. Lots of fun thoughtful 5.6-5.8 and low-5th sequences. Not well protected (using a normal VF kit with normal VF procedure) -- see further below for more detail and non-normal options.

If continue above the top of the main VF climbing section, follow paint markings and cairns across steep slopes with loose rock and slippery dirt and grass, also some more short easy VF cable sections -- until reach the Bivouac Giancarlo Biasin shelter.

Descent: If continue above the top of the main VF climbing section, the next logical decision point is at the Bivouac Biasin shelter. From here (or from Monte Agner summit) climbers would normally descend the Normal route or (only if snow conditions are favorable) VF Canalone (with lots of steep loose rock and slippery dirt, and at least one section across snow which might be frozen hard icy).

- - > See VF Canalone on this Map
. . . . . (with downloadable GPS track)
. . . (except that it was deleted by REI staff Oct 2018: Maybe they'll put it back?)

Statistics:
* vertical of VF main climbing part : +300 meters
* Length of serious climbing : 370 meters

* total Vertical to Top of VF serious climbing from highest Parking : +1140 m = +3740 ft
. . . (starting from low village overnight Parking : +1240m = +4070 ft vertical)

* total Vertical from top station of ski Lift : +615m = +2015 ft
. . . (except this Lift only rarely operates in summer any more).

Side-trip to go up + down first main climbing section of VF Canalone:
* adds Vertical of climbing : +65 meters
* adds total Vertical : +180 m

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

to Bivouac Biasin from Frassene village overnight parking:
* vertical uphill : +1580 meters
. . . (perhaps +100 meters less if park above village).
* horizontal distance : 6.2 km

Monte Agner summit from Frassene village overnight parking:
* vertical uphill : +1800 meters
. . . (perhaps +100 meters less if park above village).
* horizontal distance : 6.7 km

warning: If using a normal Via Ferrata kit with normal VF procedures, falling on this route would likely result in serious injury (even death), because many of the cable anchors are not well located for Protection. Therefore if you fall, you're likely to hit something bad.
So if you're not fully sure you can do some sequence, grab the cable or other hardware for aid. Actually taking a fall is a really bad idea.

Start from Parking below or above the village of Frassene. Next hike up to Rifugio Scarpa-Gerkian. Next follow signs for Via Ferrata on trail with ups + downs + curves. Continue on trail after Normal route bears off right. Later turn off Left for VF Stella Alpina (where VF Canalone approach goes straight or a bit rightward). Meet the first cable, follow that up and right across short steep wall. After that more hiking and scrambling following paint markings and cairns, to reach bottom start of main VF climbing section.

- - > See on this Map
. . . . (with downloadable GPS track).
. . . (except that it was deleted by REI staff Oct 2018: Maybe they'll put it back?)

waypoints:
* Parking legal overnight below Frassene village : (N46.2529 E11.9841) : (elev 1085 m)
* Parking near end of narrow asphalt road above village : (N46.2532 E11.9787) : (1170 m)
* Parking along dirt/gravel section before reach closure gate : (N46.2551 E11.9796) : (1190 m)
* Rifugio Scarpa-Gurekian hut : (N46.2597 E11.9612) : (elev 1735m)
. . . (with ski lift top station below just a bit NE, it it ever operates in summer).
* Junction of trails : (N46.2634 E11.9559)
. . . Normal route goes off R (NE?).
* Junction of trails : (N46.2656 E11.9550)
. . . Approach to VF Canalone bears R (N).
* VF short low section : (N46.2664 E11.9546)
* VF Stella Alpina main bottom start : (N46.2673 E11.9539) . (elev ~ 2070m)
* VF Stella Alpina top of serious climbing : (N46.2669 E11.9530) . (elev ~ 2365m)
* VF Canalone bottom start : (N46.2683 E11.9549)

This route is protected in most of its non-easy segments by fixed hardware: Steel cable attached to the rock with anchor posts. So most climbers have a "normal" via ferrata kit attached to their harness, and clip the carabiners on the leashes/lanyards of the kit to the steel cable. So if they fall, the carabiner(s) slide down until the hit the next lower steel post that attaches the cable to the rock. Then the climber falls a few feet farther until the leash/lanyard catches on the harness.

Sounds good, but the big problem is that the specific location / placement of many of the cable-attachment posts on this route (like with most VFs) are not designed for Protection in case of a fall. Instead the placements are designed mainly to keep the cable taut and in useful configuration so the climber can grasp it and pull on it for Aid. Also perhaps designed to save money on hardware and time on installation and maintenance. So in many situations on this route (like with most VFs), if you actually take a fall, you're likely to hit something bad. And you might fall fairly far before hitting it. So (if using a normal VF kit with normal VF procedure) climbing on this route in a style where you might actually fall is a really bad idea.

So the Protection rating by rock-climbing standards is at best PG-13 (like with most VFs). But some VF experts have said this route is not well protected even by Via Ferrata standards, so likely it's better to think it as having a Protection rating of R.
. . . (assuming a normal VF kit with normal VF procedure).

Consider also that even if your ability with a chosen climbing style is so strong that you can confidently climb some section without any chance of falling . . . this rock is dolomite, not granite. Like limestone, it breaks. Consider also that since most climbers on this route are grasping and pulling on the steel cable, not holds on the rock -- so many handholds have not been tested (recently or perhaps ever). So if choose to climb "free" you could take a fall and hit something bad even though it's not your fault.

Therefore, best to consider other non-normal equipment and protection strategies if trying to climb in "free" style. Two major ones are: Getting a rope belay by a partner from above, or Using a special VF kit (e.g. Skylotec Skyrider) which works like a top-rope-solo self-belay on steel cable of appropriate diameter.