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Routes in Turkey Rock
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Brain Cramps T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Brain Front T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chopping Block T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Curving Crack Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Dash and Thrangle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Direct Hit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Eastern Front, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fiend, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Finger Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Finger Lickin' Good T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Glen's Pancake T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gobbler's Grunt T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Great White Crime T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hallucinogenic Blues T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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In Style, Out of Fashion T,S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X |
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Jump Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Little Edward's Little Overhang T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Nightime Madness T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Northern Comfort T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Rastafarian T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Route 902 T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Satyr's Asshole T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Second Coming T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Southern Comfort T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Stewart's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Straw Turkey T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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That's All You Get For Five Bucks T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Tofonareeker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tryptophane T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Turkey Challenge aka The Pro T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Turkey Shoot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Vanishing Point T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Where Turkeys Dare T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wild Fire T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Brian Teale & Dan Morrison (1976) |
| Page Views: | 874 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Sarah Meiser on Oct 1, 2018 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: NOTE: Access only from Turkey Rocks Trailhead.
Details
No access from the Turkey Rock Ranch Estates neighborhood.
Description
This is an obscure route on the south face of Turkey Rock. It's a bit dirty and brushy in a few places but overall pretty clean and worth doing.
P1. Start up the big, easy chimney system, moving right when it splits in two. The climbing here is well-protected and no harder than 5.7. After a section of good hands, engage the crux, a finger crack with tricky feet. Finish up with a thrashy squeeze slot protected by a #6 cam. Belay at a good ledge above the slot. This a long pitch, about 150 feet.
P2. Make a few awkward moves to overcome some chockstones above the belay, and tackle a roof with a perfect hand crack. Above the roof, the crack narrows to fingers. When the crack ends, step left to join Turkey Shoot, and finish the pitch up low angle double cracks (one hand-sized, the other #4). Belay on a big ledge as you would for Turkey Shoot. This is a great 5.8 pitch.
P3. Climb the last pitch of Turkey Shoot (5.8 offwidth protected by a #6 Camalot) to the top.
To descend, do the standard walkoff to the east.
P1. Start up the big, easy chimney system, moving right when it splits in two. The climbing here is well-protected and no harder than 5.7. After a section of good hands, engage the crux, a finger crack with tricky feet. Finish up with a thrashy squeeze slot protected by a #6 cam. Belay at a good ledge above the slot. This a long pitch, about 150 feet.
P2. Make a few awkward moves to overcome some chockstones above the belay, and tackle a roof with a perfect hand crack. Above the roof, the crack narrows to fingers. When the crack ends, step left to join Turkey Shoot, and finish the pitch up low angle double cracks (one hand-sized, the other #4). Belay on a big ledge as you would for Turkey Shoot. This is a great 5.8 pitch.
P3. Climb the last pitch of Turkey Shoot (5.8 offwidth protected by a #6 Camalot) to the top.
To descend, do the standard walkoff to the east.
Location
Begin in the large chimney system on the left side of the south face, immediately right of the classic Turkey Shoot.
Photos
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