Type: Trad, Alpine, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches
FA: FA: "Pitch 1 Ganger-Munger 50.10+" /// Cleaning, gardening FA Pitch 2 - Andy Bardon, Wade Spiner, May 2018
Page Views: 840 total · 11/month
Shared By: Andy Bardon on Sep 11, 2018 · Updates
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

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Description Suggest change

Great two-pitch trad climb. No bolts.  Fun movement on clean rock.  70M rope recommended for descent

Pitch 1 is an old 5.10+ route is listed in Renny's book on page 67. Alternatively, in the Wes Gooch guidebook, it's called Ganger-Munger 5.10D. This variation splits off right after the P1 anchor, tackling a steep roof, then an upper corner that is clean, albeit short, splitter crack climbing.

Start ->  25 feet left of Tolle Route
( Pitch 1 ) -> Climb Ganger-Munger P1 5.10. Climb the obvious weakness around the left side of a bulge to gain the two parallel cracks. Climb the leftmost crack until you get into the white rock below the roof. Build a gear anchor below the roof.  
( Pitch 2 ) -> Climb up to the roof above and eventually fade right through a blocky bulge via a series of stems and laybacks. Gain a 35 foot left facing clean corner with splitter hands to a ledge. Look for bolts with rings on the ledge.

Descent -> Walk across the ledge (West or lookers left) to gain bolted anchors on the top of Boxcar Arete.  3 raps from here gets you to the ground w 70M

Location Suggest change

25 feet left of the Tolle Route (Guides Route) dihedral out on the clean face. 

Protection Suggest change

Standard trad rack to 3". Save #1 Camalot sized for anchor after (P1)

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