All Locations > Utah > Southeast Utah > Potash Rd > Long Canyon > Maverick Buttress

Bump and Grind

Name: Bump and Grind
Rating: 4.0

5.12 YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E6 6b British

Routes in Maverick Buttress

L › R R › L A › Z

	Unknown Wide Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Quickdraw S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Unknown T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Unnamed "5.11" T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Unknown T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Mustang Man T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Unknown 2 T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Unknown 3 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Saddle Sores T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Round-Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Texas Two Step T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Moki's Big Adventure T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Hot Toddy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Tequila Sunrise T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	High Noon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Boot Hill T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Gunsmoke T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Miss Kitty Likes It That Way T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Just the Tip! T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Rawhide T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Unnamed 11 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Broke Back Butt Hurt T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Buckle Up T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Short Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Guy on a Buffalo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Bump and Grind T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
	[Redacted] T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

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Type:	Trad, 270 ft (82 m), 3 pitches
FA:	Evan Wisheropp
Page Views:	1,643 total · 20/month
Shared By:	Evan Wisheropp on Sep 10, 2018
Admins:	slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Sheep Aware Details

Long canyon serves as important habitat for Utah's only endemic herd of Desert Bighorn Sheep. Please be respectful of wild sheep and other wildlife by maintaining a quiet atmosphere and keeping at least 100 meters from animals. Desert Bighorn Sheep are especially sensitive to disturbance between April 1st - June 15th when they are raising their young. Consider limiting your disturbance during this time period by climbing in other areas. You may notice water catchment systems in strategic locations to provide water for wildlife in Long canyon. One of these exists near the trail to Maverick Buttress.

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.

Description

Long Canyon is home to a high concentration of very high quality offwidth cult classics: The Mayor, Head Stack, Dark Passenger, etc… Surely “Bump and Grind” will eventually make the list as well. The approach is stupid easy, the climbing is unforgettable, the belay ledges are comfortable, and it even tops out to a solitary tower-like finish. It is an absolute must for any desert offwidth lover.

The crux pitch was put up as an onsight FA, but the first pitch took a bit more work. The first pitch was choked with thousands of pounds of loose blocks. I lead bolted a mixed route to the left, "Incredible Infusion Of Delights" (5.11) to get up to the ledge and rap down to clean this pitch. I had planned to just remove the bolts on IID and patch the holes since it's so different, but the route ended up being really fun and people were really digging the variety. IID also works well as an approach to this climb.

P1) 5.10

Climb a shallow chimney/corner clipping two bolts shared with the mixed gear route that forks to the left (Incredible Infusion Of Delights 5.11). Skip the third bolt and instead place a #9 up high in the dihedral (clipped long) then mantle rightward onto the ledge. Continue up a flared squeeze. Arrive at a small wedged block and place a #2 then a .75 on the right wall as you stem past them. The top block wobbles, but we’ve tried, it isn’t going anywhere. Continue up a #5 crack to a large belay ledge and two bolt anchor. 115’

Gear: .75-3.5” and #5-9 (x2), many slings.

P2) 5.12

This is the money! Bump a #6 while grinding up 45’ of solid arm-baring inside a flared corner. Use the good rest before the 30’ of severely overhanging arm-barring. A few energy zapping roofs will keep you plenty engaged. This pitch is almost all #6s, but a tight BD #7 or very tight VG #9 in the final overhang can prevent the need for another #6. 85’

Gear: #6 (x4-6) and BD #7 (x1). #3 big bros work well to cut down on weight.

P3) 5.7

Victory lap! A brief section of easy OW leads to some scrambling and a ledge with an anchor 20’ to the right. Don't forget to wander the tower summit, this route is the only way up there! 70’

Gear: BD #7 (x1) and optional #4 Big Bro

Location

The climb is only visible from a very short section of the road. Take the standard Maverick approach trail and continue rightward past Miss Kitty and Short Crack. Keep looking up and once you can see the soaring offwidth, turn around and walk BACK 30' to a small opening to a cave. A short 4th class scramble lands you in a perfect shady nook.