Dreambed

A fine mixed sport and trad line crossing Red Shirt. Expect difficulties in the 5.11 range and occasonal 10 ft runouts in the 5.10 range. Apparently this is a popular route and relatively safe for the grade, or at least by Yam standards.

There seem to be many different opinions of the route grade and crux locations. Below is what we encountered.

P1 (25 m) stem corner with some jams, all gear. 10-.

P2 (35 m) stem up and left before cutting right beneath a bulge and around an arete to jugs, fairly positive, bolts. Some consider this the crux. 11a

P3 (25 m) step right, up a dihedral and then stem/face on bolts and positive holds left. 10

P4 (35 m) steep face moves with deck potential on bolts until a shallow dihedral. Follow the slightly run out bolts up and trend right. Pull a roof via a left side crack on gear with the route crux just below. Sustained 10, 11b crux.

P5 (20 m, good to combine with P4 unless the second needs a tight belay) 4th class steppy blocks up and right.

P6 (30 m) follow bolts up and left via balancy face moves. Finger lock or compression above. 10c

P7 (25 m) Follow the dihedral to a bolt, hard to see at first, then step up and right around a bulge and then up and left via easier terrain. 5.9, brief

P8 (25 m, good to combine with P7 with good rope management) traverse right on pitons, up at a bolt and pillar, then pleasant green to blue cams layback and crack with gear. 5.8

Getting Off:
From P8 anchors, climb a few meters of easy terrain and walk off, be aware of snow in winter and early season.
Double 70 m rope rappel: Top of P8-P6 (50 m), P6-P4 (50 m), P4-P2 (60 m), P2-Dirt (65 m). Anchors at the top of  P1, 2, 3, 4 have cord and a quick link to rap on, P5 has cord only, P6 has a runner and locker that should be traded out for cord, P7 bolts only (would be hard to pull your rope off of this station), P6, sling around a single bolt with a biner.