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Fiddlers on the Roof
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2 from 2
votes
Routes in North End
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Argonaut, The TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Awakening Spirits T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Bat Attack T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Boogie Till ya Puke T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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ByPass T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Death Wish T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Enduro Man (Rides Again) T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Fiddlers on the Roof T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Filet-O-Fish T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Indecent Exposure T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Indian Head Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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indian toe T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Joy Loader T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Juggerhead T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lark's Tongue T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Middle Road S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Mighty Mouse T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Morton’s toe T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Nevermore T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Nevermore (The other one) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Nicotine T,S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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North End Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Nutsweat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Rastafari T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Reckless Abandon T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Reckless Abandon Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Recommendation, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Red River Face T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Roof Awakening T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Shadowdance T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Shamans T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Spice T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Superman's Dead T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Survival Of The Fittest T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a PG13 |
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Unbroken Chain aka Juggernaut T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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unknown 5.6 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Unknown 5.7 Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Vascular Disaster T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Visual Splendor T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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War Games T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Windigo T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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X-Games T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X |
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| Type: | Trad, 12 ft (4 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Tim Fisher, Jim Overby (1985) |
| Page Views: | 742 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Neil Rankin on Aug 23, 2018 |
| Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags
Details
The CCC has created the list linked below of accessible and inaccessible climbing areas with some caveats. If you decide to head out for a day of climbing, please do not attempt to go to those marked ‘inaccessible’. Please note that all areas in WNC will have extensive tree damage and if you head out, use extra caution for all the trees above, especially on a windy day. Rock fall potential is also highest after a big weather event. Please use extra caution while climbing and prepare to self rescue if injured. Injury response time will be greatly limited for any injury currently, especially for a remote injury. Cell service is limited in all areas. Parking at accessible crags in the WNC/ Upstate SC region will likely be challenging. If the parking lot is full, go to a different area and do not park illegally or in a road. Make a plan B before leaving your house. Expect road detours on the way to the crag. NCdrive.gov updates road closures. Once you get to the crag, expect many trees blocking access trails and of course, come volunteer with the CCC to help us bring our climbing areas back!
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
Description
An esoteric adventure named for the 8' roof on it's second pitch. The roof crack is classic while the first pitch builds character.
(P1) 5.9+, 90 feet. It begins with overhanging dirt climbing into a corner underneath a bulge. The landing is pretty good at the base which is nice because it may take a couple times up and down to figure out the 'dirt crux.'
After pulling the low bulge traverse right about 15' and then up some delicate moves. This leads to a steepening face split by a couple seams about a body length apart. Don't go left into the big wide gully crack. The first ascensionist likely took the right seam through the face but it seems difficult with sparse pro and lichen (harder than 5.9). The natural weakness is to escape right another 15' aiming for the arete which is hiding a big crack and easy climbing. Regardless of the path belay at the highest ledge in a cleft just underneath the roof.
(P2) 5.10. 45 feet. Traverse right to the crack splitting the roof. Pull the roof and the difficulty is over. You can climb up another full pitch of 4th class and easy 5th class if you like but getting down will require more work. I recommend traversing up and right for the fixed anchor at the top of Spice. The anchor is two incredibly bomber nuts, stainless steel wire, with fixed biners. You could maybe lower to the ground but I was worried about trashing my rope so I just brought my partner up. It's a short pitch anyway.
(P1) 5.9+, 90 feet. It begins with overhanging dirt climbing into a corner underneath a bulge. The landing is pretty good at the base which is nice because it may take a couple times up and down to figure out the 'dirt crux.'
After pulling the low bulge traverse right about 15' and then up some delicate moves. This leads to a steepening face split by a couple seams about a body length apart. Don't go left into the big wide gully crack. The first ascensionist likely took the right seam through the face but it seems difficult with sparse pro and lichen (harder than 5.9). The natural weakness is to escape right another 15' aiming for the arete which is hiding a big crack and easy climbing. Regardless of the path belay at the highest ledge in a cleft just underneath the roof.
(P2) 5.10. 45 feet. Traverse right to the crack splitting the roof. Pull the roof and the difficulty is over. You can climb up another full pitch of 4th class and easy 5th class if you like but getting down will require more work. I recommend traversing up and right for the fixed anchor at the top of Spice. The anchor is two incredibly bomber nuts, stainless steel wire, with fixed biners. You could maybe lower to the ground but I was worried about trashing my rope so I just brought my partner up. It's a short pitch anyway.
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