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Four Routes to the Right of Slab
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in The Family Wall
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3 Climbs Left of "The Trunk" T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Brown Seam a.k.a. Flake Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bubblecuffer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Chocolate Moose S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Four Routes to the Right of Slab T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Moose Du Jour T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Moose's Leap S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mr. Moose's Wild Ride T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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School's Out S 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Trunk, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Various |
| Page Views: | 877 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Robert Hall on Aug 12, 2018 |
| Admins: | Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Access Issue: BOTH the trails and the cliffs are on private property. Please "go lightly" and read the details.
Details
The Deer Hill Rd approach is a shorter and more secluded access to the cliffs but has winter closure. The Stone House Rd approach brings you VERY close and obvious to the owners house.
It's surrounded by W.M.N.F but the Shell Pond Crags are located on private property subject to a conservation easement held by Greater Lovell Land Trust. The owners and easement holders of the property have been gracious enough to allow climbing to occur on their land, but access is not guaranteed in the future. If you show up and there are numerous cars in the parking lot consider climbing at other nearby Evan’s Notch locations
It's surrounded by W.M.N.F but the Shell Pond Crags are located on private property subject to a conservation easement held by Greater Lovell Land Trust. The owners and easement holders of the property have been gracious enough to allow climbing to occur on their land, but access is not guaranteed in the future. If you show up and there are numerous cars in the parking lot consider climbing at other nearby Evan’s Notch locations
Access Issue: Peregrine Falcons in Maine
Details
Maine Peregrine Falcons breeding season extends from mid-March through July or August. Hiking or climbing near nesting peregrines can cause abandonment and death of eggs/young. If adults are away from the nest, eggs or young can become overheated, chilled, or chicks can miss feedings. Be on the lookout for agitated falcons that may vocalize, take avoidance flights, or dive-bomb those that are too close. If you encounter an aggressive peregrine falcon please immediately leave the area, and report incidents to Erynn Call, State Raptor Specialist, MDIFW, erynn.call@maine.gov.
To learn more about peregrines in Maine, check out this link: maine.gov/ifw/fish-wildlife…
To learn more about peregrines in Maine, check out this link: maine.gov/ifw/fish-wildlife…
Description
There are four routes located to the right of Bubblecuffer. The usual approach is to walk right of Bubblecuffer about 30-40 ft, then cut back left-and-up to a dirt ledge.
1) Justin's Ascent 5.9 climbs the face to an anchor. The climb is left of the large, wide, dirty corner crack (This climb MAY(?) actually start on the far right of the main slab and then traverse onto the face.)
2) Coyote Crack 5.7 - the large, wide, dirty crack in the corner
3) Bullwinkle 5.8 - Climbs a corner in the left wall of the Arete to an overhang (2 Bolts), then finishes on the arete.
4) Schools Out 5.2 - Climb the arete past 2 bolts to the old tree anchor. [NOTE: This climb currently (2018) seems to be mis-named as Bullwinkle.
1) Justin's Ascent 5.9 climbs the face to an anchor. The climb is left of the large, wide, dirty corner crack (This climb MAY(?) actually start on the far right of the main slab and then traverse onto the face.)
2) Coyote Crack 5.7 - the large, wide, dirty crack in the corner
3) Bullwinkle 5.8 - Climbs a corner in the left wall of the Arete to an overhang (2 Bolts), then finishes on the arete.
4) Schools Out 5.2 - Climb the arete past 2 bolts to the old tree anchor. [NOTE: This climb currently (2018) seems to be mis-named as Bullwinkle.
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