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Routes in 07. Psychedelic Rock
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Another Brick in the Wall S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Barracuda S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cajun Hot Stick S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Comfortably Numb S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Don't Bring Me Down S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Empty Spaces S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Flaming (c)Lips, The S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Highway to Hell S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Jumping Jack Flash S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Let it Burn S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Matchhead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Money S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Run Like Hell S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Stairway to Heaven S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Thriller S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Time S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Total Eclipse S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Turn to Stone S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Us and Them S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 110 ft (33 m) |
| FA: | Chris Barnes, Mike Engle & Vernon Phinney, Aug 2018 |
| Page Views: | 728 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Engle on Aug 11, 2018 |
| Admins: | Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Description
This is one of 6 routes that is accessed from the broad ledge below a broad steep face called "The Wall". Use one of 4 approach pitch options (Don't Bring Me Down, I Turn to Stone, Stairway to Heaven, or Barracuda) to gain chain anchors on a comfortable ledge.
Empty Spaces has a couple ways to begin the climb. From the anchors on the broad ledge below 'The Wall', move left and stem up an easy corner past a couple trees clipping a couple bolts along the way. From the big dead spruce tree, pull onto the wall and follow good chert up to a small ledge about 1/2 way up, continue on amazing, easy huge chert to a final headwall. Work up a couple of runnels with occasional baseball sized chert knobs to the anchors.
Alternatively, it's possible to move the belay from the chain anchors on the broad ledge below to 'The Wall' up the easy stemming corner past the trees to another set of chain anchors just past the dead spruce and lead the climb from there.
Empty Spaces has a couple ways to begin the climb. From the anchors on the broad ledge below 'The Wall', move left and stem up an easy corner past a couple trees clipping a couple bolts along the way. From the big dead spruce tree, pull onto the wall and follow good chert up to a small ledge about 1/2 way up, continue on amazing, easy huge chert to a final headwall. Work up a couple of runnels with occasional baseball sized chert knobs to the anchors.
Alternatively, it's possible to move the belay from the chain anchors on the broad ledge below to 'The Wall' up the easy stemming corner past the trees to another set of chain anchors just past the dead spruce and lead the climb from there.
Location
This is the left most route that is accessed from the chain anchors on the broad ledge below 'The Wall'.
Protection
12 - 13 bolts. Sport anchors for lowering. Pay attention to the descent on this route. With a 60 meter rope lower to the chain anchors at the top of the stemming corner by the big dead spruce. With a 70 meter rope it's possible to lower back to the chain anchors on the broad ledge at the base of "The Wall'. With either set of chain anchors it is another rappel back to the ground with a 60 meter rope.
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