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White Peregrines
5.10a/b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.2 from 13
votes
Routes in Granite Park Spire
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White Peregrines T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 650 ft (197 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | B.Bindner, E.Holland, R.Poedtke, Z.Schnieder 07/2008 |
| Page Views: | 2,995 total · 39/month |
| Shared By: | Richard Shore on Aug 1, 2018 |
| Admins: | Chris Owen, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
A fine backcountry route on excellent rock. A little flakey from lack of traffic and the long approach has certainly kept the crowds at bay. The topo does a good job of breaking things down so a pitch-by-pitch description seems unnecessary. I'll provide a few helpful pointers instead:
* the 10a crux on P1 is near the bottom; the "move around arete" higher seems trivial in comparison
* P4 feels like 5.7 or maybe 5.8, super soft for the supposed 5.9 grade
* link P4 into the P5 crux 5.10a traverse, belaying on the large ledge above the "5.9 finger and hand crack." This avoids the awkward alcove gear belay and the downclimbing and backcleaning shenanigans shown on the topo.
* there is good medium-sized gear at the start of the "5.10a 5-inch layback" on P5; a chockstone can also be slung partway up.
* ballnuts, #5 camalot, and the big-bros listed on the topo are not required.
* "Fixed Nuts Rap Anchor" at the top has been replaced by a single bolted ring anchor as of 09/2019. A slung chockstone or horn can also be used.
9 Comments