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Routes in N. Mount Watkins
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South Face T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a C2+ PG13 |
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Teabag Wisdom T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Twisted Road, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 1350 ft (409 m), 9 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | Vitaliy Musiyenko, Chris Koppl, 2016 |
| Page Views: | 4,919 total · 62/month |
| Shared By: | SirTobyThe3rd M on Jul 31, 2018 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
A good mix of face climbing, crack climbing and slab with adequate protection and mostly bolted anchors. A really good climb on great rock! Best in summer (on days with milder temps in Toulumne) and Fall, when Tioga Pass is opened
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http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214126/Mt-Watkins-Teabag-Wisdom
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http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214126/Mt-Watkins-Teabag-Wisdom
Location
East Face of Mt. Watkins. To approach, use the Olmsted Point parking lot and hike on a nice trail towards the top of Mt. Watkins. Take 2 60M ropes or a single 60 and a 60m tag line to rap the gully between Mt. Watkins and the formation (dubbed the Harding Tower) directly to the East. Or alternatively find the tree on top of the route and rap the route to the base.
Check the Reed Guide for directions to the base of Golden Dawn, which is a route climber's left of Teabag Wisdom. It explains how to locate the gully well. Allow just over an hour to the top of the formation and another 1-2 hours to the base of the route if this is your first time approaching.
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