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Wyoming
> Wind River Range
> Far Northern Winds
> Whiskey Mountain
> Chocolate Factory
Willy Wonka
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British C2
Avg: 4 from 2
votes
Routes in The Chocolate Factory
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Twizzler T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Fudge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Willy Wonka T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2 |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, Alpine, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Eli Boardman and Max Manson 7-27-18 |
| Page Views: | 1,083 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Eli Boardman on Jul 27, 2018 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Access Issue: Petroglyphs and Private Land
Details
Torrey Valley is known for ancient petroglyphs found on sandstone blocks, usually facing one of the lakes. It goes without saying, don't climb on or directly next to the petroglyphs, and don't harm them in any way.
The approach road (County Road 411/Trail Lake Road) runs through private land on an easement from the Whiskey Basin wildlife reserve to the public campground at the head of Ring Lake. It is illegal to leave the road without permission from the landowners in this area except for the boat ramp at Torrey Lake provided on a goodwill basis. The east side of the valley has a lot of private land, too. There is not much worth climbing in the private part anyway.
The approach road (County Road 411/Trail Lake Road) runs through private land on an easement from the Whiskey Basin wildlife reserve to the public campground at the head of Ring Lake. It is illegal to leave the road without permission from the landowners in this area except for the boat ramp at Torrey Lake provided on a goodwill basis. The east side of the valley has a lot of private land, too. There is not much worth climbing in the private part anyway.
Description
I believe this climb is legitimately classic due to the great position, quality rock, interesting and varied moves, and distinctly different flavors of the two pitches.
Pitch 1 (5.8)
Locate an offwidth crack going up inside the west edge of the obvious arch on the south face of the rocks. Start by climbing up onto a small ledge to the right of the crack, then use a combination of offwidth jamming and stemming to climb up inside the arch. Continue through chimneys above the offwidth and gain a big ledge. Continue to tunnel up and right through caverns inside the rock until you reach a large sloping platform with walls on two sides and a dramatic roof. Belay here.
Pitch 2 (C2)
Climb or aid up to the horizontal crack below the nearly horizontal 15-foot roof. Tension traverse out below the roof to place the biggest cam you have (at least a #4). Aid out the ever-narrowing crack in the roof. There is a fixed ballnut from my FA at the corner where the roof turns up. A few tenuous placements with moderate decking potential above the ledge lead around the corner of the roof to the belay. My partner thought this pitch was reminiscent of the classic climbs "Separate Realities" and "Trench Warfare;" it might go free at 5.hard. After topping out, eat some chocolate and soak in the splendor of the views.
Pitch 1 (5.8)
Locate an offwidth crack going up inside the west edge of the obvious arch on the south face of the rocks. Start by climbing up onto a small ledge to the right of the crack, then use a combination of offwidth jamming and stemming to climb up inside the arch. Continue through chimneys above the offwidth and gain a big ledge. Continue to tunnel up and right through caverns inside the rock until you reach a large sloping platform with walls on two sides and a dramatic roof. Belay here.
Pitch 2 (C2)
Climb or aid up to the horizontal crack below the nearly horizontal 15-foot roof. Tension traverse out below the roof to place the biggest cam you have (at least a #4). Aid out the ever-narrowing crack in the roof. There is a fixed ballnut from my FA at the corner where the roof turns up. A few tenuous placements with moderate decking potential above the ledge lead around the corner of the roof to the belay. My partner thought this pitch was reminiscent of the classic climbs "Separate Realities" and "Trench Warfare;" it might go free at 5.hard. After topping out, eat some chocolate and soak in the splendor of the views.
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