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Routes in 8-Dostie
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Affordable Care T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Central Fins - Left Corners S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Central Fins - Left Tower + Groove TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Central Fins Wandering TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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CF Connect Left Upper Right S 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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CF Left Ledge S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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CF Right Groove S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cohiba T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Connect High Chouinard T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13 |
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Connect Top Central Fins T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13 |
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Guanobita T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hand Traverse T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Left Slab - Central TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Left Slab - Far Left Gully TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Left Slab - Left Arete TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Left Slab - Left Cracks TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Left Slab - Near Left Gully S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Left Slab - Right Flake TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Limbaugh Limbo TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Right End Ledge S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Upper Right Corner S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Upper Right Exit S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Upper Right Face S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, TR, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Ken Roberts |
| Page Views: | 669 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | kenr on Jul 25, 2018 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Lots of interesting moves on big features of granite on the right side of the Central Fins (CF) area.
directions: Start at the Left mid-way two-bolt anchor (which is at the intersection of the routes "Left Ledge" and "Right End Ledge"). Up right a few feet, then up left to cross above the anchor. As cross above the anchor, see three bolt lines above. The right one is a variation to join the route "Upper Right Face". The center one is for this route "CF Right Groove". The Left one is for the route "CF Wandering".
Step Left across gully onto face below nose, and climb up through notch in nose. Then up and over another nose (crux).
. . . (likely the crux could be avoided, so then the overall route difficulty would be 5.8-5.9).
Next up a shallow groove under the overhanging bulge. Then go left to its bottom left corner. Up along left side of bulge and finish on narrow chimney (at least 5.8 with some fun moves) to reach two-bolt anchor.
warning: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
directions: Start at the Left mid-way two-bolt anchor (which is at the intersection of the routes "Left Ledge" and "Right End Ledge"). Up right a few feet, then up left to cross above the anchor. As cross above the anchor, see three bolt lines above. The right one is a variation to join the route "Upper Right Face". The center one is for this route "CF Right Groove". The Left one is for the route "CF Wandering".
Step Left across gully onto face below nose, and climb up through notch in nose. Then up and over another nose (crux).
. . . (likely the crux could be avoided, so then the overall route difficulty would be 5.8-5.9).
Next up a shallow groove under the overhanging bulge. Then go left to its bottom left corner. Up along left side of bulge and finish on narrow chimney (at least 5.8 with some fun moves) to reach two-bolt anchor.
warning: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
Location
At the Left mid-way anchor . . . which is at the intersection of the routes "Left Ledge" and "Right End Ledge" . . . which is right from the crux crack of the route "CF Left Corners" and above left from the route "Affordable Care".
Could be reached by climbing either of the routes "Left Ledge" and "Right End Ledge", or by climbing the route "Affordable Care", or the first part of the route "CF Left Corners".
Left mid-way anchor is two-bolts-connected-with-climbing-rope, with rappel ring near the bottom of this route.
. . (Bolts and upper hanger are 304 Stainless steel. Lower hanger + rappel ring are Plated steel. Installed 2018).
- - > see Q on this Photo
Could be reached by climbing either of the routes "Left Ledge" and "Right End Ledge", or by climbing the route "Affordable Care", or the first part of the route "CF Left Corners".
Left mid-way anchor is two-bolts-connected-with-climbing-rope, with rappel ring near the bottom of this route.
. . (Bolts and upper hanger are 304 Stainless steel. Lower hanger + rappel ring are Plated steel. Installed 2018).
- - > see Q on this Photo
Protection
Forgot to count how many bolts lead up to the anchor.
Top anchor is two bolts connected by cord, with ramshorn lower-off.
. . . Bolts and upper hanger are 304 Stainess steel. Lower hanger + ramshorn/pigstail are 316 Stainless. Installed 2018.
. . . Intermediate bolts + hangers are all 304 Stainless steel 3/8 inch. Installed 2018.
There is a facultative/directional bolt about 15-20 ft above this anchor, and a bolt 5-8 ft horizontal left from this anchor.
Leading: Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.
Top-Rope: Two-bolt anchor near top of this route -- can be reached from upper anchor for "CF Wandering" (or from the route "CF Connect Left Upper Right") by traversing horizontal right about 20 ft past one bolt (on left side of down-pointing flake). Or could be reached from top anchor for "UR Corner Crack" or bush-with-rope anchor by clipping to a facultative / directional bolt. Or reached from directly above from the higher bolt anchor for "UR Face".
-- with facultative bolt above to help protect access to this anchor across top of wall after climbing another route nearby.
For ideas on how to get access to top of this route to set up a top anchor, see the Area description page for this sector Dostie.
Top anchor is two bolts connected by cord, with ramshorn lower-off.
. . . Bolts and upper hanger are 304 Stainess steel. Lower hanger + ramshorn/pigstail are 316 Stainless. Installed 2018.
. . . Intermediate bolts + hangers are all 304 Stainless steel 3/8 inch. Installed 2018.
There is a facultative/directional bolt about 15-20 ft above this anchor, and a bolt 5-8 ft horizontal left from this anchor.
Leading: Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.
Top-Rope: Two-bolt anchor near top of this route -- can be reached from upper anchor for "CF Wandering" (or from the route "CF Connect Left Upper Right") by traversing horizontal right about 20 ft past one bolt (on left side of down-pointing flake). Or could be reached from top anchor for "UR Corner Crack" or bush-with-rope anchor by clipping to a facultative / directional bolt. Or reached from directly above from the higher bolt anchor for "UR Face".
-- with facultative bolt above to help protect access to this anchor across top of wall after climbing another route nearby.
For ideas on how to get access to top of this route to set up a top anchor, see the Area description page for this sector Dostie.
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