Direct North Ridge

An intriguing, full-spectrum, mountaineering adventure on a proud and prominent feature that is probably best for the alpine enthusiast rather than those interested in pure rock climbing. This was one of the most memorable adventures of my life, comparable, albeit far shorter, than the North Ridge of Mount Owen. Expect challenge in the form of difficult route-finding. It's also worth noting that superb weather is in order, as bailing from this route amidst a storm would be nightmare, involving lots of un-rappel-able traversing fifth-class terrain while reversing the lengthy approach. The Ortenburger-Jackson declaration of excellent rock quality is perhaps over-stated. Though the rock is generally good and at times exceptional, stretches of delicate choss will be encountered.

As for routefinding, the Ortenburger-Jackson guide was quasi-helpful, but predictably cryptic. No rappels are needed to connect the top of the route to the summit, as previously stated on MP. I've attached a few topos to shed light on a convoluted approach, and highlight significant features. The FA climbed 8 pitches, but we climbed in 5 long pitches. Here's a pitch by pitch breakdown of how we managed, including where we likely deviated from the first ascent.

Approach: Mid to late season, when sufficient snow is melted from the north facing wall above the Crooked Thumb Couloir, follow standard East Face trail until just below the commencement of the technical scrambling. Traverse the prominent grassy ledge to the Northeast Ridge (3rd class) as per the attached topo. From the Northeast Ridge traverse to the Crooked Thumb Col, angling up and west, on vegetated, exposed, alpine terrain ranging from fourth class to mid-low fifth-class, gaining approximately 1,000 vertical feet while traversing about 1/3 of a linear mile. Keeping the faith is the best tool for success on this unlikely approach. Earlier in the season, a preferred approach may be via the Crooked Thumb Couloir itself, moderate snow climbing from 40-50+ degrees. A party not comfortable soloing up to at least 5.5 will probably need a short belay at several points and therefor be taxed significant time. See distance topo provided.

Pitch One* (5.6-ish, 60M+) - Begin climbing about 20 meters below the Crooked Thumb Col on the east side of the Grandstand. Ascend easy and occasionally dirty, vegetated slabs (5.6) for one long pitch and some fourth class scrambling, or two shorter pitches, to the summit of the Grandstand. Use intuition and protection opportunities to pick a logical starting point. Early season may require a starting belay from the snow.

Pitch Two** (5.7, 50M) - Set a belay just west of the ridgecrest below a blocky chimney-ish gully weakness. The route will stay within 10M of the ridgecrest for the next 2-3 pitches. Ascend steep blocks (5.7) with neon green lichen for about 10M, until a logical 10-ish meter eastward traverse can be made, onto the east face, past a ratty fixed bail anchor and later a single fixed piton. From the piton, continue up nondescript steep terrain (5.7) following the logical line of least resistance. Keep an eye out for two prominent parallel cracks in orange-pink rock that will be the star of the next lead. Set a belay at one of many nice stances beneath them. The rock on this pitch is good quality.

Pitch Three*** (5.8) - Gain the parallel cracks and climb the right one. The rough crystalline crack is difficult to protect but the rock is sound, and is the climbing highlight of the route. Above, the FA might have split west of the crest on a slab with fixed pitons and an intermediate belay. I climbed directly up the line of least resistance, following the available protection and savory rock, through a stem chimney (5.7), a fair bit of easy rolling terrain and finally a steep slab with a crack and very fun golden layback flake (5.8). All the rock on this pitch was good quality, and easier climbing could be available further east, albeit in poorer rock. This pitch reaches the top of the Second Step in a rope stretching 60 meters.

Pitch Four** (5.8+, 40 meters?) - Shift the belay about 10M onto the west face, along a broad ledge system that stretches much further onto the face. Two attractive weakness are just west of the crest, but instead, navigate right of these cracks on easy ledges. Climb a strange hand-traverse, pommel-horse, exceptionally awkward, taco-looking low-angle crack feature (yep, I mean it) that will leave you puzzled (5.7+), towards another blocky chimney-gully reminiscent of pitch two. Surmount a brief overhanging bulge into the chimney (5.8+) and into a ladder of scary but reasonably solid steep blocks. When reasonable, jump left onto a nice belay stance with a fixed piton and lots of shattered rock that requires caution. We believe this was the FA route. Slightly suspect, but clean, rock.

Pitch Five** (5.8 or 5.10-, 50+M) - We believe we lost the FA route here. On the original topo, a long traverse to the west, back towards the crest, gains an easy blocky weaknesses and finishes on the direct north prow of the ridge with a few 5.8 exit moves. We didn't see a logical, protectable, traverse back to the crest, but it could be there and might be worth investigating. Instead, I climbed the short but very steep wall of fractured black rock directly above the belay. This turned out to be far more difficult than expected, solid and pumpy, gently overhanging 5.10- at 12,000+ feet, but at least the protection was reasonable. The crux was a brutal bouldery mantle with no good finishing holds. We'll call this the Black Plate Tango variation, and is not necessarily recommended, but a useful resource if you get stumped and need a way off the ridge. Above the BPT we followed a few attractive, steep and clean cracks (5.7) to a long broken slab of pleasant low-fifth terrain, finishing just climber's right of the apex tower.

The top of the ridge, scramble fourth class terrain south to the summit. Descent is made via the traditional East Face route. Snow can present hazard late into the season. If you get off route, which is highly likely on this nondescript, seldom visited, heavily featured ridge, remember one thing - the cleanest rock, and best climbing, will be found within 10M of the crest. Identifying the main features of the ridge, the Grandstand and Second Step, will be very useful for navigation.

We completed the route car-to-car in about 13 hours, moving at a consistent, motivated, alpine pace.

Note: If you find the "proper" final pitch of first ascent, pitch eight on the Ortenbuer-Jackson topo, consider leaving a comment below!