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Fire Forsok
5.10b,
Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches,
Avg: 3.5 from 6
votes
FA: Thorbjorn Enevold, Aart Verhage, Bengt Flygel Nilsfors 1992
International
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Description
("Four Tries") This route is misrepresented in the guidebook. It's not an N7, nor does the final pitch involve any wide-crack climbing. This first pitch is very fun!
P1) 5.9 35M. Find a wide, orange crack downhill of Lundeklubben. Walk up 5.0 climbing to a small grassy ledge, and then work up the left-facing corner past a couple horizontals until it gradually becomes steeper into a left-swooping overhang. As the pitch steepens, enjoy absurdly juggy pockets and holds. Climb left out of the over hang, and belay from a stance in a right-facing corner above.
P2) 5.8 25M. Work up a brief finger crack, and then go right on easy ground to the base of a clean head wall split by two cracks above.
P3) 5.9 20M. The right crack is wide, but part of Four Pitch Route. The left crack is hands and fingers, and decidely not N7-. But enjoy the short pitch all the same.
Descent: walk off to the back/right.
Location
Find the overhanging wide crack in a corner scoop from the bottom, about 80 feet up. Best to check out the pictures.
Protection
Standard rack, perhaps with a 4-5in piece (BD #4)