All Locations > Vermont > 1. Northern Ver… > Black Mountain > Main Cliff

Black Moon Rising

Name: Black Moon Rising
Rating: 3.0

5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British

Routes in Main Cliff

L › R R › L A › Z

	Absence of Light, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Balancing Act S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Beer-Bellied Black Mountain Bushwhackers T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Bikes-N-Ditches T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Black Beans T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Black Bear T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Black Clouds S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Black Dreams T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Black Jesus T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Black Mamba T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Black Moon Rising T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Black Opus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Black Plague T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Black Plum T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Climbmax T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Collage a Trois T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Crows Fly Black T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	D 'n' B T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Dirty Dreams S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Divided Sky S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Double D Cracks, Left Side T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Double D Cracks, Right Side T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Dreamy honeymoon- link up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Eight Lives Left T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Ejection Seat S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Expanding Horizons T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Fear is the Mind Killer T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Fight For Your Mind (aka Go Left) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Frijoles negros T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Grizzly T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13
	Honeymoon Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Hotstepper T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	Invisibilia T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Jengarete T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Jet Crack T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Kingdom Heritage T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Krakatoa T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Log Skidder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Lost Nation's Finest T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Meadowlark T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Nyx T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Out of the Blue (and into the Black) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Pet Badger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Possum T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Rainshadow S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Shadow Spirit T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	SOHCAHTOA T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Soliloquy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Some Say the Crux is the Hardest Part S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Soul Journey T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Spice is Life, The T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Sway T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Sweet Life T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Threat Level Midnight T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Traffic Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Traffic Jam Extension T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Unnamed Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Wild Black T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

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Type:	Trad, 110 ft (33 m)
FA:	Ira OMC, Doug Scott
Page Views:	1,835 total · 23/month
Shared By:	Ira OMC on Jul 6, 2018
Admins:	Jason Hayden, Kristen Fiore, Luc-514 Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review cragvt.org Details

Description

Most of this route is 5.9 to 5.10 climbing with one semi-desparate move that can be aided through if needed. The route has an adventurous "alpine" feel to it.

Start at the base of the next buttress past Jengarette. Follow the wider and left leaning of the two cracks until under the roof, then traverse left and upwards passing a bolt and some gear to a left arching layback crack that will then bring you to an offwidth with good face features to the left. Follow this up to a horizontal crack (#3 c4) which bisects the left arete. Mantle into this and a small ledge on the left side of the arete. Clip a bolt, then levitate up 3 feet to a small crimp and an (almost) jug where you will have a good stance to clip another bolt. (Crux). Continue up the difficult face to a small finger crack, another mantle, and a short off-width to a two bolt anchor.

Location

Walk the trail until just below the Jengarette buttress, then continue to traverse the hillside for a couple minutes until below the obvious roof and arete. The route starts below the roof then continues up the left face of the buttress.