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Routes in 10. American Beauty
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Black Betty S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Black Hole Sun S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fire & Rain S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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I Can See For Miles S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Stage Fright S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Truckin' S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Sport, 120 ft (36 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Chris Barnes & Vernon Phinney, June 2018 |
| Page Views: | 756 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Engle on Jul 4, 2018 |
| Admins: | Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Description
P1: Start between "Truckin'" and "I Can See For Miles" and climb up pleasant, solid large chert to chain anchors at a small ledge.
P2: Continue face climbing up to a second small ledge and continue on a steep chert face with right diagonalling crack. Continue to the top anchors on thoughtful and technical face climbing.
P2: Continue face climbing up to a second small ledge and continue on a steep chert face with right diagonalling crack. Continue to the top anchors on thoughtful and technical face climbing.
Location
Starts about 8 feet to the left of a small pillar like block near the base of the formation.
Protection
About 10 - 12 bolts on each pitch. From the top anchors lower with one rope to the chain anchors of either "Stage Fright" or "I Can See For Miles". Single rope rappel back to the ground.
Note: With a 60 meter rope, it is possible to combine the two pitches into one long lead and lower off the sport anchors back to to the ptich 1 chain anchors. Then you can belay your second to the top of the second pitch and lower them to the chain anchors or back to the ground. Then you pull the rope, thread the chain anchors and rappel to the ground.
Note: With a 60 meter rope, it is possible to combine the two pitches into one long lead and lower off the sport anchors back to to the ptich 1 chain anchors. Then you can belay your second to the top of the second pitch and lower them to the chain anchors or back to the ground. Then you pull the rope, thread the chain anchors and rappel to the ground.
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