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Mucho Pumpito

5.10d, Sport, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 4 from 17 votes
FA: Craig Leubben and Cameron Cross, David Ryan
International > N America > Cuba > Vinales > La Costanera

Description

The must do two pitch classic in Cuba.

The first pitch begins on a small pillar and climbs straight up through a small cave. The belay for the second pitch is on the right side of a large ledge just below the arete.

The second pitch heads right from the belay and ascends the obvious arete. 

This route was recently rebolted (2017-18) with glue in titanium anchors by Tito.

Location

Once at the wall, head towards the large cave. Inside the cave on the left side is a ramp. Scramble up the ramp (carefully!) and around the corner. Mucho pumpito starts on a small pillar several feet tall to your right. 

Protection

Bolts. 15 quickdraws is probably enough.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Start by climbing tufa into a cave
[Hide Photo] Start by climbing tufa into a cave
Laura pumping pitch 2
[Hide Photo] Laura pumping pitch 2
Double ropes needed for rappel
[Hide Photo] Double ropes needed for rappel

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Mack Johnson
Silverdale, WA
 
[Hide Comment] Most excellent. The 1st pitch is pretty moderate. The 2nd is one of the most in-yer-face pitches for the grade anywhere. The last short pitch is 5.12 and looks cool if you have gas to spare. On the fully hanging double-rope rappel it may be best to pull in to the start ledge instead of rapping to the ground. Dec 16, 2019