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Ready to Go
A5+ X
Avg: 1 from 4
votes
Routes in 2. Southwest Face
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Mr. Midwest T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13 |
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West Face T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Mirage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A4 |
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Ready to Go T A5+ X |
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Squeeze Play 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 |
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Lurking Fear T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2 |
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Controlled Burn T A4 |
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West Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 |
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Never Never Land 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 |
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Aquarian Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2+ |
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Wings of Steel T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A3+ R |
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Horse Chute T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 |
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Dihedral Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C3- |
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Excalibur T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 |
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Heart Route (Free) T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c V10 7C+ |
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Sunkist T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3+ |
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Jolly Roger T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A4+ R |
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Magic Mushroom T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a A3 |
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Flight of the Albatross T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4 |
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Shield, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 PG13 |
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Quo Vadis T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A4+ |
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Muir Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3- |
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Free Rider T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c V6-7 7A+ PG13 |
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Salathé Wall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 |
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Freeblast T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Golden Gate T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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El Corazon T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c R |
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Triple Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 |
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Grape Race T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2+ |
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Nose, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 |
| Type: | Trad, Aid, 17 pitches, Grade VI |
| FA: | Jim Beyer (solo) | May 24 2018 |
| Page Views: | 8,324 total · 98/month |
| Shared By: | Jim Beyer on Jun 5, 2018 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
See 2 page topo. I put in this very dangerous route (A6) possible ground fall on first 2 pitches, with no bolts. Yea, there are zamac rivits and no , zamac rivits are not bolts. People that claim rivits are bolts are the same people that believe that bolts smaller than 3/8" should be replaced with sport climber bolts. They make this claim to suit there own style or lack of style. While these people fall all day long on 1/4" bolts they won't on 1/4" Zamac rivits, with good reason. Zamac rivits are body weight anchors - not bolts.
Steve Schneider rapped down the bottom of Ready to Go and got on this website. While spraying hate fueled comments, he claimed that my potential ground fall pitches were A2/ A3. He then made this a reality by climbing, with various partners, his own route ( Bellagio), with lots of bolts, on top of my no bolt route. He had just previously drilled bolts where ever he wanted on Gerberdines' Allied Forces. Back in the day, Schneider chopped an A5 pitch and then shit on the Wings of Steel ropes for no good reason.
I chopped some of Bellagio on rappel. Upon reaching the last anchor before the ground, who should I see at the base but Schneider himself. I questioned him about his bolts on my route and he insisted that he didn't drill any. That was strange, because I'm looking right at his bolts, the bolts his belayer told me he drilled. These weren't bolts on his bolted start, these were bolts on my route. He hiked out before I reached the ground, so there was no epic confrontation.
Good or bad climbers that show no respect, and drill on other peoples route should experience consequences. I haven't chopped bolts in years but felt called to act. So now Ready to Go and Bellagio are both mangled routes.
6 Comments