Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

South Spire - East Buttress

5.9 Mod. Snow, Trad, Snow, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), 9 pitches, Grade III,  Avg: 4 from 1 vote
FA: Drew Brayshaw, Marc-Andre Leclerc, Jesse Mason, 2009; FWA Marc-Andre Leclerc (solo) 2017
International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Fraser Valley > Western Chilliw… > Nesakwatch Spires

Description

This route climbs immediately right (north) of the Priest-Coupe couloir that divides Rexford from South Nesakwatch Spire. It is a fun 9-pitch rock climb, but requires a long snow slog to reach and is best done early in the season before the snow melts. Crampons and ice axes are required for the approach. Most of the climbing is 5.7, but there are a couple of short 5.9 sections that can be avoided. A very full day out, especially if descending west into Nesakwatch Creek and then returning to a vehicle parked in Centre Creek

Location

Cross Centre Creek and approach up the snow gully as for the North Face of Rexford or the Priest-Coupe couloir. At the bergschrund at the base of the P-C, move right onto rock and climb 9 pitches of slabs, cracks and ledges.

Protection

A light rack from nuts to 3" cams is sufficient. Bring a 4" or 5" cam or big balls if climbing the offwidth summit block on South Nesakwatch.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Marc-Andre simul-seconding high on the route. This was his first alpine first ascent. He went on to be one of Canada's greatest alpine climbers ever before dying in an avalanche on the Mendenhall Towers in March of 2018.
[Hide Photo] Marc-Andre simul-seconding high on the route. This was his first alpine first ascent. He went on to be one of Canada's greatest alpine climbers ever before dying in an avalanche on the Mendenhall T…
Marc-Andre seconding low on the route
[Hide Photo] Marc-Andre seconding low on the route
Marc-Andre making the transition from snow to rock at the base of the climb
[Hide Photo] Marc-Andre making the transition from snow to rock at the base of the climb
Rexford (L), South Nesakwatch (C) and North Nesakwatch (R) from Centre Creek - zoom shot
[Hide Photo] Rexford (L), South Nesakwatch (C) and North Nesakwatch (R) from Centre Creek - zoom shot
Kyle Hayward pulling through a short steep crack with the summit block in the background
[Hide Photo] Kyle Hayward pulling through a short steep crack with the summit block in the background
The team on the first ascent, as seen from the summit of North Nesakwatch. Pic by Dave Dharney used by permission. DB: white helmet. <br> Jesse: orange helmet. <br> Marc: yellow helmet.
[Hide Photo] The team on the first ascent, as seen from the summit of North Nesakwatch. Pic by Dave Dharney used by permission. DB: white helmet. Jesse: orange helmet. Marc: yellow helmet.
Approaching the base of the route
[Hide Photo] Approaching the base of the route

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Drew Brayshaw
Chilliwack, BC
 
[Hide Comment] Marc-Andre soloed the FWA of this in 2017. Jul 15, 2018