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> Southern-Wester…
> Hwy 41: Fresno…
> Shuteye Ridge
> Big Sleep Area
> Voodoo Dome
Rainbow
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 4 from 3
votes
Routes in Voodoo Dome
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All Along the Watchtower T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Amber T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Bad Mama Jamma T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Brushmaster T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rainbow T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Unknown 10-, left side of Voodoo Right T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Unknown 10a, Voodoo Right, lower pillar, left arete S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Voodoo Child T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Voodoo Mamma T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 110 ft (33 m) |
| FA: | Casey Yorkunas, Dave Lane, Ann Mellick, Mark Machezck 1998 |
| Page Views: | 1,046 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Brice Pollock on May 29, 2018 |
| Admins: | Cory B, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Fingers to hands on a pretty good crack (great crack for shuteye) under a massive roof with a wild heel hook move to get on top. Wicked fun.
== Detailed Beta ==
Start with fingers in the obvious crack until they become hands at the curve. Now start over with thin fingers widening incrementally until good hands and awesome hands into the lichen under the chimney. A high hand jam followed by a solid left foot jam to move your body onto the overhanging arete with good right hand on lip. Press hard against the arete and walk your foot out to a depression before swinging a to a heel hook around and pull hard up. I partially sat on the lip as I pulled myself up and moved into the finger crack. Walk up the crack delicately and reach anchors.
== Detailed Beta ==
Start with fingers in the obvious crack until they become hands at the curve. Now start over with thin fingers widening incrementally until good hands and awesome hands into the lichen under the chimney. A high hand jam followed by a solid left foot jam to move your body onto the overhanging arete with good right hand on lip. Press hard against the arete and walk your foot out to a depression before swinging a to a heel hook around and pull hard up. I partially sat on the lip as I pulled myself up and moved into the finger crack. Walk up the crack delicately and reach anchors.
Location
From the base of voodoo, walk right around the feature until you see a black stained wall. Approach to find this 10d on the right with a roof.
You can hike around to the top, rap a gear anchor to the chains and then top rope the route. Didn't extend the anchor over the edge so there was some dragging, but the rope never caught on any sharp lips nor pulled me of while doing the roof thanks to the wide cut in it you use to jam.
You can hike around to the top, rap a gear anchor to the chains and then top rope the route. Didn't extend the anchor over the edge so there was some dragging, but the rope never caught on any sharp lips nor pulled me of while doing the roof thanks to the wide cut in it you use to jam.
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