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Routes in Myrtle 2 aka "Turtle Arches"
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Alpine Dance Lessons T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Arch Enemy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Arcing Arrow, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Crack-n-up T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dreams of Wild Corgis S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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FJL aka "Standard Route" T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Harem Route, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Have a Line S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Heather's Corner T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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In Over My Head T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Sweeney's Edge S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Underware Overhang T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 450 ft (136 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 975 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Kelty Godby on May 28, 2018 |
| Admins: | Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Description
P1: Head up the ramp, as you would for the left start of the “standard route.” At the ledge, traverse left 10 feet and set a gear anchor behind a solid flake.
P2 (R): Fun! Head straight up off the anchor and gain the arch. Traverse left under the arch until you get to a bolt and then head over the first roof. Pull the second roof on a decent jug and you’ll be at the anchor. The anchor is visible from the belay.
P3 (R): Head up and left off the belay. Gain the arch and continue left until directly under the anchor for “in over my head” there are two bolts that protect the move over the roof (Crux, tricky but fun), which gets you to the two bolt anchor.
Descent: Rappel (single rope or double rope options) see rap beta on main page beta photo.
The R rating on P2 and P3 is for the moves off the anchor. Once in the arches the gear is solid on both pitches. Significant run outs off the anchor on both pitches. I recommend bringing a screamer for the anchors.
P2 (R): Fun! Head straight up off the anchor and gain the arch. Traverse left under the arch until you get to a bolt and then head over the first roof. Pull the second roof on a decent jug and you’ll be at the anchor. The anchor is visible from the belay.
P3 (R): Head up and left off the belay. Gain the arch and continue left until directly under the anchor for “in over my head” there are two bolts that protect the move over the roof (Crux, tricky but fun), which gets you to the two bolt anchor.
Descent: Rappel (single rope or double rope options) see rap beta on main page beta photo.
The R rating on P2 and P3 is for the moves off the anchor. Once in the arches the gear is solid on both pitches. Significant run outs off the anchor on both pitches. I recommend bringing a screamer for the anchors.
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