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South Tower – North Face
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.3 from 3
votes
Routes in Family Butte
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Fifth Tower from the South (Second from the North) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fourth Tower from the South (Third from the North) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Middle Tower – Daughter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Middle Tower – Northwest Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mother Tower - Rising Sons T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 |
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Mother Tower – Northwest Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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North Tower AKA Son of Putterman - Mexican Gravy Pants T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c C1 |
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South Tower – North Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Dave Martin and Mike Tea, winter 1997 |
| Page Views: | 836 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Furthermore on May 23, 2018 |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Description
From the saddle of Mother Tower and South Tower, scramble up to the base of South Tower's north face. Face climb past 2 bolts and make a mantle to the left. A thin finger crack leads to another small ledge. Follow the obvious hand crack to another bolt above where the crack ends. I think the actual route goes up and left up a blank wall to a sort-of-sketch fixed pin. I couldn't figure out the feet to get to the pin. Instead, I hand traversed right to the western arete. Poor protection and loose rock lead to the top from the western arete.
Maybe figure out what I couldn't on the more direct left line. If you do choose to go right, extend your runners or the rope drag will be hellacious.
A single 60M rope rappel will get you to the ground.
Maybe figure out what I couldn't on the more direct left line. If you do choose to go right, extend your runners or the rope drag will be hellacious.
A single 60M rope rappel will get you to the ground.
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