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Avant-Funk

V4, Boulder, 15 ft (5 m),  Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: Bobby Hebel
Wisconsin > Niagara Escarpm… > Horicon > Ledge Park > Rhythm Wall

Description

This route enticed me while cleaning Tribal Groove to the left, and looked difficult, a rarity for this place.  Great problem, although unfortunately the beginning is meh which prohibits me from assigning 4 stars.

*FYI there is a loose block stuck up in the arete, and unfortunately it's kinda an ultra-jug. I decided not to use it, and the problem climbs better without it.

Start low on a large block that seems like it may come off (probably won't).  Work your way through some boring little pockets and a matchable ledge until you hit the two equal-altitude pockets.  With seemingly nothing to grab at this point, throw for the left arete (crux, but some options here) in order to eventually strike the high slit pocket to the right.  Top out using your preference of dusty jugs.

Location

At the Rhythm Wall, in between Tribal Groove and Acid Jazz.  Look for the high left arete.

Protection

Two pads, as the route has a bit of horizontal movement overall.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Head-on view of Avant-Funk.  Stay on the main face, the left arete is SO on.
[Hide Photo] Head-on view of Avant-Funk. Stay on the main face, the left arete is SO on.
Another angle, really highlights the starting block and arete.
[Hide Photo] Another angle, really highlights the starting block and arete.