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Crankenstein

5.11d, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 3.5 from 2 votes
FA: unknown
Maine > -Clifton Crags > Eagle Bluff > 05. The Roofs

Description

The old guidebook says that this route likes to spit you off. It's techy, delicate, powerful, and actually quite fun. It starts with a low angle scramble up to the ledge, then figure out a sequence through the tiny holds and tiny feet up the vertical wall and over the first bulge. The first jug on the route comes at 2/3rd height and is followed by a little boulder problem to get over the next bulge. Big moves between big holds will get you to the anchor. Don't blow the last move or you'll have to go through it all again for the send!

Location

Beneath the roofs and at the base of Bivy Route is a wide trail and clearing. 20' right of this, the cliff butts to a tree. This starts about 6' left of the tree. Also the 2nd bolt line after Bivy Route. Look up at Eagles Gift, the pointy roof on the right, and the anchor for this route is down on the ledge to the left. 

Protection

Eyebolts to bolt anchor. [ Admin.  Note- See Comment about anchor.] 

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Mike Farthing
Boston, MA
[Hide Comment] The rusty eye-bolt anchor at the top does not inspire confidence for rappelling. I thought about traversing to Eagle’s Gift anchor but was too pumped! Just a warning. Apr 12, 2021
Francois Cote
Fredericton, NB
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] I thought this route was great. Very thin and technical on the lower face then pure fun on great rock above. Felt solid 5.12 to me but it was pretty hot and humid so maybe conditions had something to do with it. May 25, 2024