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Routes in 05. The Roofs
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Airline T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Bivy Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Crankenstein S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Eagle's Gift, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Highlander S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Punks in the Gunks T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Witch Wonder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 940 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | BDalhaus on May 12, 2018 |
| Admins: | BDalhaus, Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
The old guidebook says that this route likes to spit you off. It's techy, delicate, powerful, and actually quite fun. It starts with a low angle scramble up to the ledge, then figure out a sequence through the tiny holds and tiny feet up the vertical wall and over the first bulge. The first jug on the route comes at 2/3rd height and is followed by a little boulder problem to get over the next bulge. Big moves between big holds will get you to the anchor. Don't blow the last move or you'll have to go through it all again for the send!
Location
Beneath the roofs and at the base of Bivy Route is a wide trail and clearing. 20' right of this, the cliff butts to a tree. This starts about 6' left of the tree. Also the 2nd bolt line after Bivy Route. Look up at Eagles Gift, the pointy roof on the right, and the anchor for this route is down on the ledge to the left.
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