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Routes in Tsaranoro Valley
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Chameleon Air Society S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sweet Avocado S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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La Croix du sud S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Out of Africa S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Alien II S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pectorine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 1100 ft (333 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Timmy ONeill, James Garrett, Sarah Steele, and Jeff Rueppel, April 2018 |
| Page Views: | 2,497 total · 29/month |
| Shared By: | James Garrett on May 10, 2018 · Updates |
| Admins: | Brice Pollock |
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Description
Neither Timmy nor I had ever tasted a sweet avocado delicacy before. We had only salted our avocados!! We were hooked on sweet avocados in Madagascar.
This may be the first route of its kind amongst the usually difficult and run out routes on the big walls of Madagascar’s Tsaranoro Valley. The Approach from Gilles's Camp in the upper part of the valley is casual and should not take more than 40 minutes. In the shade all morning. A route of moderate difficulty, well protected with Big SS bolts and fun climbing throughout.
After passing the "Waterfall Wall" follow the path a few more minutes and then walk directly to the base of the route 5 minutes from the main trail. NO Bushwhacking!
Pitch #1:: Start at the lowest part of the wall on a low angle black granite clean slab which steepens higher up. Follow about 13 bolts to a two-bolt belay. 5.6, 60m.
Pitch #2: Continue up and pass a mild bulge following the line to another two-bolt
belay ledge. Great features, excellent rock. 5.7, 60m.
Pitch #3: Climb up and slightly right through the "cactus path", which is now quite
clean and fun. After the cactus trough, trend up and left following more bolts to a two-bolt belay on a good ledge. 5.8, 50m.
Pitch #4: Follow an arete type feature up and right on fun climbing features to a another great belay ledge. 5.8, 60m.
Pitch #5: The "cactus-veg" low angle pitch, but easy to follow the swath to the two bolt belay. If you have a longer rope, it is possible to link this with #6 to the top of the formation. Beware of some looseness. 5.7, 60m.
Pitch #6: Easy scrambling to the top and find the route register under the summit
boulder and spray away. Amazing views of the massif! 3rd class, no bolts, 20m.
Descent: Either rappel the route with two 60m ropes or may be better to walk off.
Could be nicely combined with a scramble and descent via the trail over the top
of the Chameleon
This may be the first route of its kind amongst the usually difficult and run out routes on the big walls of Madagascar’s Tsaranoro Valley. The Approach from Gilles's Camp in the upper part of the valley is casual and should not take more than 40 minutes. In the shade all morning. A route of moderate difficulty, well protected with Big SS bolts and fun climbing throughout.
After passing the "Waterfall Wall" follow the path a few more minutes and then walk directly to the base of the route 5 minutes from the main trail. NO Bushwhacking!
Pitch #1:: Start at the lowest part of the wall on a low angle black granite clean slab which steepens higher up. Follow about 13 bolts to a two-bolt belay. 5.6, 60m.
Pitch #2: Continue up and pass a mild bulge following the line to another two-bolt
belay ledge. Great features, excellent rock. 5.7, 60m.
Pitch #3: Climb up and slightly right through the "cactus path", which is now quite
clean and fun. After the cactus trough, trend up and left following more bolts to a two-bolt belay on a good ledge. 5.8, 50m.
Pitch #4: Follow an arete type feature up and right on fun climbing features to a another great belay ledge. 5.8, 60m.
Pitch #5: The "cactus-veg" low angle pitch, but easy to follow the swath to the two bolt belay. If you have a longer rope, it is possible to link this with #6 to the top of the formation. Beware of some looseness. 5.7, 60m.
Pitch #6: Easy scrambling to the top and find the route register under the summit
boulder and spray away. Amazing views of the massif! 3rd class, no bolts, 20m.
Descent: Either rappel the route with two 60m ropes or may be better to walk off.
Could be nicely combined with a scramble and descent via the trail over the top
of the Chameleon
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