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Routes in Capitan Gap
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Milani's slab V0+ 4+ |
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Long Way Up, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Lichen Adventure S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pocket Rocket TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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New She-riffs In Town S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sport Route #2 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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TR #2 TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Reptar S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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Offwidth Project T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13 |
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T-Rex Don't Trad T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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| Type: | Sport, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Richard Malone and Aaron Geller |
| Page Views: | 1,374 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Andrew Ellis on Apr 30, 2018 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Access Issue: On US Forest Service Land. Please contact land managers before bolting.
Details
This crag is on US Forest Service land. The current District Ranger would like to be collaborated with before any hardware is installed on the Smokey Bear Ranger District. Please work with local climbers/ the forest service before installing any bolts.
Description
Great exposure! First pitch is about 160 or 170 feet of full value climbing, and includes the crux sequences. Second pitch is about 40 feet of quality 5.8 climbing on bomber rock and ends at your choice of two anchors. The higher one offers a pretty decent belay stance.
This is the first route you see as you make your way up to the spire. It starts at the very base of the spire on the East side as you hike up from the pullout. See photos for info.
Do as a lead/follow. I have been told that it can be done in a single pitch on a 70 meter rope, with the second following through. We did it on a 60, and used the mid point anchor. Bring an extra rope to rappel from two that are tied together. The rappel drops you off of the north side of the spire, about 50 feet downhill of Lichen Adventure.
This route will be used in the future to access other portions of the spire and to start installing more routes.
This is the first route you see as you make your way up to the spire. It starts at the very base of the spire on the East side as you hike up from the pullout. See photos for info.
Do as a lead/follow. I have been told that it can be done in a single pitch on a 70 meter rope, with the second following through. We did it on a 60, and used the mid point anchor. Bring an extra rope to rappel from two that are tied together. The rappel drops you off of the north side of the spire, about 50 feet downhill of Lichen Adventure.
This route will be used in the future to access other portions of the spire and to start installing more routes.
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