Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Cactapuss

5.12-, Trad, 45 ft (14 m),  Avg: 2.9 from 10 votes
FA: Stefan Hadeed
Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Fin Wall
Warning Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description

Fun bouldery start with a few face holds. Rest up in a good hand jam pod then launch into splitter fingers and tight fingers to the chains

Location

Left side of the wall. Plaque at base. Located just right of No Beggin and Finnegan's Whiskers.

Protection

Ball nuts or small nuts with (3) 0.4 camalots and (1) 0.3 camalot

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Just a dog and his plaque
[Hide Photo] Just a dog and his plaque
In the finger crack.
[Hide Photo] In the finger crack.
Moving through the bouldery start
[Hide Photo] Moving through the bouldery start

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] Cool route! Pretty damn fierce!

Gear:

#6 BD Stopper, 00 C3, .4, .4, .5 Nov 26, 2020
Mango
From good ole West Virginia
[Hide Comment] Great route!
Bouldery start protects easily with a stopper low then a .0 and .1 in the horizontal 
I thought the difficulty would ease in the vertical but boy was I wrong! After my lead attempt, I TR'd to sus the beta but came down defeated after creating one of the largest finger gobies I've ever had!
Then, my belayer who already had two TR laps went for a lead and ruined his finger too! This crack may be short but it packs a punch.
I suggest lightly taping your two pointer fingers so you don't end up like us.. Nov 18, 2024