Type: Trad, 140 ft (42 m), 2 pitches
FA: Dan Head, Gerard Tarr Jan 2013.
Page Views: 487 total · 6/month
Shared By: Cameron Fraser on Apr 23, 2018
Admins: Cameron Fraser, Muscrat, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

A great line with some cool rock features and great views of the bay. The first pitch is probably 4 stars, but is let down by the unremarkable second pitch.

Pitch 1 - 20 (30m)

Scramble up easy ground to a large ledge. From here move up to an undercling fist crack where plenty of protection can be arranged. Climb into a scallop shaped feature (crux 1) where you can take a rest if needed. From here continue up the corner system on easier ground until it steepens and tightens. Move up through the steeper section of the corner, taking good placements when you can through some tricky moves at the grade (crux 2). Escape left from the corner onto the slab and 5m of easy ground to the bolted belay. This pitch is the money pitch of the climb, you could consider rappelling from here and not doing the second pitch.

Pitch 2 - 17 (10 - 15m)

Short pitch. From the anchor head left and mantle a few ledges. Supposedly there is a bolted anchor to the right of the second ledge. If not, follow a crack up through a cool undercling move to top out the cliff. Arranging a belay here can be tricky. Fixed ropes from here lead to the top of the hill, with a vague trail marked with sporadic tape leading you back to the campsite (descending the valley between little big wall and the bluffs).

Location Suggest change

Starts where the leftward trending fixed ropes end. You can recognize the climb by the iconic undercling fist crack / scallop feature.

Protection Suggest change

Cams 0.2 - 4 are useful, nuts. #3 camalot great for first crux.

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