Type: | Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 7 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | an ascent has been made, Jan 2018 |
Page Views: | 859 total · 10/month |
Shared By: | dave custer on Feb 15, 2018 |
Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Stick Gully is an exercise in oak tree beating, punctuated with occasional pitches of rock climbing, some of which is pretty good. And an absolutely crazy double helix pitch through the final chockstone/headwall.
P1: From the end of the scrambling, make your way to the top of the chockstones. Thrash a short ways to move the belay to the back of the gully.
P2: up the far back of the gully to delightful cracks to a level spot to more delightful crack climbing to oak trees. Thrash up in oak trees. A short distance before the next chock stone barrier, belay at a gash on the right.
P3: up the gash; maybe 40 feet; don't kid yourself; this is not the best pitch you've ever climbed.
P4: up the obvious crack in the left wall; maybe 25 feet; traverse right to belay on top of chock stones.
P5: grovel up the gash to a forest
p6: traverse climbers left on the ledge system and down/across slabs to return to the main gully below the final chock stones of doom.
P7: an interesting step-across leads to the right hole; follow this up, right, and back to daylight; continue the spiral (climber's right no longer makes sense when you are coming from inside the cliff...) through a second chockstone hole, a move or two, and the gentle upper reaches of Stick Gully, roughly at the height where the down climb from Fear and Loathing traverses into Gemstone Gully.
P1: From the end of the scrambling, make your way to the top of the chockstones. Thrash a short ways to move the belay to the back of the gully.
P2: up the far back of the gully to delightful cracks to a level spot to more delightful crack climbing to oak trees. Thrash up in oak trees. A short distance before the next chock stone barrier, belay at a gash on the right.
P3: up the gash; maybe 40 feet; don't kid yourself; this is not the best pitch you've ever climbed.
P4: up the obvious crack in the left wall; maybe 25 feet; traverse right to belay on top of chock stones.
P5: grovel up the gash to a forest
p6: traverse climbers left on the ledge system and down/across slabs to return to the main gully below the final chock stones of doom.
P7: an interesting step-across leads to the right hole; follow this up, right, and back to daylight; continue the spiral (climber's right no longer makes sense when you are coming from inside the cliff...) through a second chockstone hole, a move or two, and the gentle upper reaches of Stick Gully, roughly at the height where the down climb from Fear and Loathing traverses into Gemstone Gully.
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