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Washington
> Northwest Region
> San Juan, Fidal…
> Mt Erie
> (f) Summit Area
> (b) Lookout Wall
Bomb Blast Lightning Waltz
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2.7 from 27
votes
Routes in (b) Lookout Wall
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Beane's Blast S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Beginning, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bomb Blast Lightning Waltz S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Cat With No Tail S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Gladiator S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hang Glider S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Lightning Waltz S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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PTSD S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Unknown Variation Start to Lightning Waltz S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Vertigo T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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| Type: | Sport, 75 ft (23 m) |
| FA: | Ken Beane, Stu Ford (~80s) |
| Page Views: | 1,889 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Matthew Tangeman on Feb 12, 2018 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
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Description
Bomb Blast Lightning Waltz climbs the plumb line of the crag through nice edges and bouldery sequences.
Climb mostly 5.10 terrain over three bulges, occasionally feeling a little contrived, but with good holds and fun moves. A bit of thin slab leaves you perched below the crux, where a nice mix of power and finesse will see you through.
Ken Beane established the line in the 1980s on lead, climbing the route as directly as possible. Ken and his partner Stu Ford put it up on a very cold day. He intentionally climbed both roofs, with very marginal pro at best (X rated) which the guide books have the route info wrong. He then drilled the first bolt by hand on a stance. The second bolt he drilled by hand, only after reaching the lunch box hold, and then hanging off hooks. Then Stu put him back on belay and he finished the route.
The route was completely retrofitted with new lead bolts by Brooks Middleton and Michael Abrams in 2017 and remains the main attraction of the crag.
Climb mostly 5.10 terrain over three bulges, occasionally feeling a little contrived, but with good holds and fun moves. A bit of thin slab leaves you perched below the crux, where a nice mix of power and finesse will see you through.
Ken Beane established the line in the 1980s on lead, climbing the route as directly as possible. Ken and his partner Stu Ford put it up on a very cold day. He intentionally climbed both roofs, with very marginal pro at best (X rated) which the guide books have the route info wrong. He then drilled the first bolt by hand on a stance. The second bolt he drilled by hand, only after reaching the lunch box hold, and then hanging off hooks. Then Stu put him back on belay and he finished the route.
The route was completely retrofitted with new lead bolts by Brooks Middleton and Michael Abrams in 2017 and remains the main attraction of the crag.
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