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Bigger Dog
5.13-,
Sport,
Avg: 3.5 from 77
votes
FA: Kevin Capps
Colorado
> Golden
> Clear Creek Canyon
> Dog House
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31 Visit:
jeffco.us/open-space/news/2… Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit:
jeffco.us/open-space/alerts… The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season. Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
Access Issue: Private Property - be aware & respectful
Details
Per Daniel Dunn, Stewardship Manager, Boulder Climbing Community ((803) 443-8822): this crag is on private property. The landowners are aware of the climbing on their property and continue to allow access for rock climbers. It is critical for long term access that everyone who climbs here is respectful and does their part to keep the crag in good shape. For more information on how to be a good steward check out the Climber's Pact from Access Fund.
Description
This route is like Big Dog's big brother. You get the same fun starting moves as Big Dog, but then you finish with powerful bouldering and crimping straight up the prow.
Like a lot of routes, several kneebars and new beta in the crux have made this route a little easier for some. I did not use knee pads, climbed it directly, and originally called it 13a. So, take whatever grade feels honest with the methods and beta you choose, it seems like it lands in the 12d-13a range these days. No matter what path or tactics you choose to climb it, it’s a pretty fun route!
Location
Start on
Big Dog, then continue straight up the prow to the top instead of going out right.
Protection
Permadraws.
![In the crux.]()
[Hide Photo] In the crux.
![Ripped off the pinch/left kneebar foothold at the start of the top crux. Still doable - though probably a little harder.]()
[Hide Photo] Ripped off the pinch/left kneebar foothold at the start of the top crux. Still doable - though probably a little harder.
![Not sure if this is Bigger Dog, but I took a picture of unknown female - thought she might like it.]()
[Hide Photo] Not sure if this is Bigger Dog, but I took a picture of unknown female - thought she might like it.
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Golden, CO
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I've written some notes about the beta a group of us used. If you're skeptical about it being 12d, try it out again, and let me know what you think:
From the ledge w/ the 3rd clipped:::
Climb all the way through the bottom boulder problem and clip the 5th (skip 4th) from the R knee scum.
Clip the 6th after getting the L kneebar in.
For the upper crux, keep the kneebar in for as many moves as you can.
After the big LH move to the ledge, you can use a L heel hook to make the next few moves before the massive jug much easier. It was helpful to shake out on the jug before clipping the 7th.
The rest of the climb is 5.10. Oct 8, 2022
Golden, CO
Boulder, CO
Golden, CO
Denver, CO