All Locations > Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (v) Monument Area > (8) Anglin's Buttress

Lava Lanes

Name: Lava Lanes
Rating: 3.1

5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British

Routes in (8) Anglin's Buttress

L › R R › L A › Z

	Lava Lanes S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	7-10 Split S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Deception Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Anglin n' Danglin' S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Optigrab S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Full-Opti S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	America's Most Blunted S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	Jim Climbing S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Chosstafarian S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

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Type:	Sport, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches
FA:	Prep: Dave McRae, solo. FFA: Dave McRae and Alan Collins 11/27/2017
Page Views:	4,544 total · 50/month
Shared By:	Dave McRae on Dec 22, 2017
Admins:	Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:

ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!

There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…

Description

Lava Lanes clips bolts all the way to the spectacular, bowling pin shaped summit of Osa Thatcher's needle. After the first pitch, it's very exposed and sustained in the grade. For full value, link pitches 2 and 3.

1st frame: 5.7R* "The Gutter". Start at a rappel anchor 10 feet left of the Jenga pile. Angle up and left through easy terrain on a shrinking ledge to a final 5.7 move on rotten rock. 6 bolts, 90 feet.

2nd frame: 5.10**** Sustained face climbing on good holds. 10 bolts, 90 feet.

3rd frame: 5.10*** A couple cruxes in the first 40 feet, then easier terrain on spaced out bolts lead to a comfortable ledge. 7 bolts, 90 feet.

4th frame: 5.10c**** "300 Club". Engaging arete action leads to a crux overhang, and the coffee table sized summit. 7 bolts, 60ft.

Location

Lava Lanes starts on the main ledge of Anglin's Buttress, accessed by the bolted 5.4 approach.

Protection

Fully bolted with steel 'biners on the anchors. For the least rock fall, rappel 7/10 Split to the main ledge with a single 70m rope. A single 60m rope will work for rappelling Lava Lanes.