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Uyghur Tarts (and Toads)
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 4 from 1
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Routes in The Wudu Wall
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100 Years of Centipedes T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Goat Boy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Scorpion Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Scorpion Pancakes T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Siege of the House Lizards T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C2 |
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Siege of the House Lizards–Sauramus Variation T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Uyghur Tarts (and Toads) T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Viper, The T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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| Type: | Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Ryder Stroud and Dan Jerke |
| Page Views: | 569 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Ryder Stroud on Dec 17, 2017 · Updates |
| Admins: | Nate Ball, Dan Flynn |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Chinese National Park, China borderlands laws
Details
Access to Keketuohai has constantly changed. There was a time when the park management did not want climbers in the park at all. But a dedicated crew of climbers, both foreign and Chinese, have convinced the park that climbing can be a benefit to the park's bottom line, culture, and reputation. As of summer 2016, foreigners and Chinese alike can camp within the boundaries of the park.
However, this freedom does not come without red tape. Be ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN to register with the local Keketuohai police, so they are aware of your presence in the area. You need to also sign waivers with the park management.
However, this freedom does not come without red tape. Be ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN to register with the local Keketuohai police, so they are aware of your presence in the area. You need to also sign waivers with the park management.
Description
Named for the delicious, jelly-filled, Toaster Strudel-looking snacks you can buy in the local shops in Keketuohai town, this route is a varied good time. It has everything from offwidth wiggling to gymnastic movement.
P1: Begin underneath a large, prominent corner to the left of Scorpion Crack. The start pushes through a wide bulge off the ground. Easier, lower-angle wide climbing will bring you to a steeper section leading into a big, triangular hole. Wide hands and fists will bring you into the hole. Pass a small roof at its top onto a short section of slab. Belay beneath the prominent roof. (5.9+, ~40m)
P2: The roof business. A short section of secure jams leads to a widening of the crack. Launch through a gymnastic sequence to overcome the wide section and into the final steep bulge. Powerful, awkward jams in a slot at the roof's end will bring you to a thank-god stance. Climb the easy slab above to find a perfect belay tree. (5.11d, ~15m)
Descent: Rap off the belay tree. Double ropes required to make it to the ground. If no double ropes or a tag line, scramble up the obvious gully above the tree to the top of the formation. Follow its spine via the easiest route (be careful of large slabs) until you reach a bunch of easy ledges that lead down into a notch splitting the Wudu Wall from the cliff higher on the hill. Descend into the notch (cool, narrow slot along the way), going right down into the notch and its subsequent gully.Hug the base of the cliff until you reach the approach trail and follow it back to the start of the route.
P1: Begin underneath a large, prominent corner to the left of Scorpion Crack. The start pushes through a wide bulge off the ground. Easier, lower-angle wide climbing will bring you to a steeper section leading into a big, triangular hole. Wide hands and fists will bring you into the hole. Pass a small roof at its top onto a short section of slab. Belay beneath the prominent roof. (5.9+, ~40m)
P2: The roof business. A short section of secure jams leads to a widening of the crack. Launch through a gymnastic sequence to overcome the wide section and into the final steep bulge. Powerful, awkward jams in a slot at the roof's end will bring you to a thank-god stance. Climb the easy slab above to find a perfect belay tree. (5.11d, ~15m)
Descent: Rap off the belay tree. Double ropes required to make it to the ground. If no double ropes or a tag line, scramble up the obvious gully above the tree to the top of the formation. Follow its spine via the easiest route (be careful of large slabs) until you reach a bunch of easy ledges that lead down into a notch splitting the Wudu Wall from the cliff higher on the hill. Descend into the notch (cool, narrow slot along the way), going right down into the notch and its subsequent gully.Hug the base of the cliff until you reach the approach trail and follow it back to the start of the route.
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