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The Serpent (Midgard)
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.8 from 9
votes
Routes in Valhalla Area - Main
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Drill Baby Drill S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lancelot S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Viper, The S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Serpent (Midgard), The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Edge of Tomorrow S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Vulcan S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Angelfire S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Dan Dellinges & others, 2007-2017 |
| Page Views: | 1,366 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | soyo climber on Nov 23, 2017 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Always check SEKI road conditions and peregrine closures
Details
The SeKi Rock Climbing website nps.gov/seki/planyourvisit/… has current closures as well as other climbing information for visitors.
Moro Rock (SEKI) and Chimney Rocks usually have nesting closures every year from April 1 to August 15.
As of April 2016, all routes are open to climbing.
Moro Rock (SEKI) and Chimney Rocks usually have nesting closures every year from April 1 to August 15.
As of April 2016, all routes are open to climbing.
Description
A beautiful line up excellent rock, though some lichen/munge. 4 pitches if starting from bottom, 3 if starting from the fixed ropes at Valhalla Traverse ledge. Casual 5.8, well protected.
See topo in Valhalla Main area photos.
See topo in Valhalla Main area photos.
Location
From the Route Descriptions by Dan Dellinges and Larry Zulim 2007-2018: "5.8, four pitches, approximately 500 feet (take two ropes). This climb starts about 50 above the bottom, below the Valhalla Traverse, mid-wall. You can also use the Viper Belay just left of the two bolts for the second pitch of The Serpent, and rappel to the start, or you can find your way from the bottom. We set up the Viper belay so this could be done. Only one cam is needed on this climb, and should be just a bit smaller than a #1 blue TCU. The first pitch starts at a small but good ledge and follows a thin crack up a short ramp to a bolt. Harder moves lead to easier climbing to just under a small roof. The Viper goes straight up from here. For the Serpent go right to another bolt, continuing right to a mantle up and over to a small ledge and bolt. A couple more bolts are found on the way to the next belay station. Pitch two follows a short ramp to the left, then knobs to a bolt. A knob can be slung prior to the bolt. Follow the knobs and bolts to a mantle and ramp leading left. This next part though hard, just requires focus. You will come to a great hand hold with a crack under it. Your only cam placement. Climb left to the belay bolts. Pitch three leads up and left to bolts and then right to a ledge. Or if you brought more cams in the smaller range you can climb the crack above to the same ledge. Lots of small foot holds here. From the ledge follow the bolts through knobs and smears to the “Oasis”. A very small ledge for standing is found here with a bolt belay. Pitch four goes a little left to small knobs then up, still on small knobs to a dyke. Climb over this dyke continuing on knobs and smears to the short but steep head wall and very nice ledge. A bolt belay allows for rappelling the route. This entire route was bolted on lead by two really old guys with “chicken toes” so it is pretty doable."
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