Left Eyebrow to North Face

Combining these two routes forms a classic line up the north-ish side of Sugarloaf on great rock. I've posted this as 5.6 to be consistent with the included portions of Left Eyebrow and North Face. A part or two may feel 5.7 though.

P1 & P2: Climbed as per Left Eyebrow, ending at a gear belay once you run out of rope on the excellent, continuous hands-to-fist crack.

P3: Continue up the remaining crack but step onto the right face before the bushes (i.e., "small, left-leaning spruce tree" per North Face). Head up past an over-large chicken head for a total of ~35m to a nice ledge and belay. This ledge takes a couple large hexes for a belay anchor and is essentially a large notch in the bottom of a right-facing dihedral that continues up. See note below.

P4: Essentially, you are already on North Face. And you have a choice:

a) continue ~straight up (maybe slightly left) on easy run-out terrain to the bivouac ledge bolts;

b) or step right out of the large notch and then climb up a right-facing corner. Eventually you can follow the corner as it turns to a groove and run it to the anchor or pull around the corner back onto the left face and go up to the anchor.

At the bivouac ledge bolts (far right side of the big grassy area), I prefer to clip one and continue up. But rope drag could become an issue if you came up via 'P4b' above and short-sling'd a bolt.

P5 thru P8: Summit via the remainder of North Face.

Note: The below image by Johnny Gann is taken at or very near the above end-of-pitch-3 large notch. And the leader in the photo has gone the 'P4a' way and is near where one clips a bivouac ledge bolt on North Face.

For the start, see Left Eyebrow.

See Left Eyebrow and North Face.

Also, for P1 of Left Eyebrow, I tend to want to have two or three cams equivalent in size to BD C4 #0.3 as well as the smallest Trango ball nut for P5 - slightly above the ring piton which is also girthed at its' neck with a narrow sling.