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Ginger Crack Variation Finish (Der Guberbaum)
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 3 from 5
votes
Routes in Ginger Buttress
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Snake Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fist or Flips T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Somewhere Over the Rainbow T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Cumin Trafficking T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Life Aquatic, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Power Failure T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Jack's Lament T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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All You Can Eat T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Grab 'Em T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unimpeachable Groping S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Idiocracy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unintelligible Groaning T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Ginger Cracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ginger Crack Variation Finish (Der Guberbaum) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Like Tears in Rain T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Blade Runner (aka The Ginger Arête) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Ginger Buttress (full), The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Spice T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Sugar T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Cayenne Corners T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Salty Dog T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Waterstreak Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dry Rub T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Thyme Alone T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2 |
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| Type: | Trad, 175 ft (53 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,028 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Andy Hansen on Nov 7, 2017 · Updates |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
This is a new-to-me finish that is more in line, literally and figuratively, with the rest of the climbing on Ginger Cracks. Upon finishing P5 of Ginger Cracks, continue up the corner system into the bushy gully. The route "Blade Runner" will be on your right but you're aiming for the smooth, varnished corner dead ahead.
Begin with perfect #2 & #3 Camalot hand jams up to the roof using a cool ledge to chimney with your back against the right wall. Place pro out in the flake of the right wall and make a move to get into the broken flake system. Continue up and over the overhang into the corner using the crack and face holds. Continue up the corner until you can converge with the chimney finish of Ginger Cracks. Bust left onto the face when appropriate and finish at a rock pinch.
Begin with perfect #2 & #3 Camalot hand jams up to the roof using a cool ledge to chimney with your back against the right wall. Place pro out in the flake of the right wall and make a move to get into the broken flake system. Continue up and over the overhang into the corner using the crack and face holds. Continue up the corner until you can converge with the chimney finish of Ginger Cracks. Bust left onto the face when appropriate and finish at a rock pinch.
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