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Routes in East Face
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Fairly Easy T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R |
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Lizard Lieback T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 650 ft (197 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Vlada Matena, Tom Rogers (2017) |
| Page Views: | 3,317 total · 36/month |
| Shared By: | Vlada Matena on Nov 7, 2017 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
The route ascends the upper east side of Fairview dome roughly following a line drawn vertically through the middle of the largest left-facing dihedral on the face to the ground.
(1) 5.6PG. 120 feet. 2 bolts. Ascend a series of small steps which are next to a short vertical wall and just above some large boulders. Then climb straight up past two bolts to a small roof running across the face. Belay in cracks under the roof.
(2) 5.4PG. 150 feet. Face and then crack climbing leads up and right to a comfortable belay at the base of the dihedral.
(3) 5.7. 150 feet. Climb the left-facing dihedral. Belay just after the end of the dihedral.
(4) 5.4PG. 200 feet. Climb generally straight up to the top. Many variations are possible. Belay among the blocks on top of the dome.
Descent:
Descent is the same as for any other climbs on Fairview which end at or near the summit.
Retreat:
Retreat would require leaving gear.
(1) 5.6PG. 120 feet. 2 bolts. Ascend a series of small steps which are next to a short vertical wall and just above some large boulders. Then climb straight up past two bolts to a small roof running across the face. Belay in cracks under the roof.
(2) 5.4PG. 150 feet. Face and then crack climbing leads up and right to a comfortable belay at the base of the dihedral.
(3) 5.7. 150 feet. Climb the left-facing dihedral. Belay just after the end of the dihedral.
(4) 5.4PG. 200 feet. Climb generally straight up to the top. Many variations are possible. Belay among the blocks on top of the dome.
Descent:
Descent is the same as for any other climbs on Fairview which end at or near the summit.
Retreat:
Retreat would require leaving gear.
Location
Park at the turnout on the highway for all Fairview routes that is 3.5 miles from the store and 4 miles from Tenaya Lake. Hike up around Fairview past the descent route to the start of the climb. This approach hike can take 45 minutes to an hour. Since the Fairview lot by the highway gets filled quickly, a good alternative is to park at the Cathedral Lakes parking. Ascend the JMT towards Cathedral Lakes until the trail levels out and you can see Fairview through the trees. Go cross-country through the forest to the base of the climb. This approach also takes about an hour and is a wonderful adventure.
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