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Sons of the West
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British C0
Avg: 2 from 2
votes
Routes in Main Face
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Bill's Bad Bolts S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A1 |
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Desperado Chuteout T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Icarus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 R |
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Los Banditos T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1 |
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Lucky 13 -to- GP Headwall -to- Rock Around the Clock S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A0 |
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Machete Direct T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A1 R |
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Machete Direct - Free T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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Pigeon Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
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Robots of Dawn S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Rock Around the Clock S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1 |
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Son of Dawn Wall T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A0-1 PG13 |
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Sons of the West T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C0 |
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West Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A1 R |
| Type: | Trad, Aid, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Mark K. Howe, Dave Melrose, Seth Delis, Eric Berghold 9/2002 |
| Page Views: | 1,279 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Joe Forrester on Nov 7, 2017 |
| Admins: | andy patterson, Aron Quiter, Bruce Hildenbrand, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Current Raptor Advisories for Pinnacles National Park nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/…
and
pinnacles.org/climbing_info…
Closures effective as of the day after Martin Luther King Day- July 3. Check closure website for details on closed areas.
SPECIAL NOTICE: Condors have been establishing nests at the Pinnacles National Monument. Since condors develop to fledgling more slowly than raptors and vultures closures due to condor nesting is extended past the usual Martin Luther King Day to July 3rd. Again, please check the "Current Raptor Advisory" section of the NPS website and/or the Friends of Pinnacles website for current closures.
As of July 2024 there are three active Condor nests at Pinnacles National Park.
The Machete Ridge area is closed from Pigeon Crack on west face then west around the south side to The Hideout including the popular Old Original.
All climbing routes at Crowley Towers are closed.
All routes on the Yaks and Yaks Wall plus Marauder.
Description
Excellent, prominent line going up one of the steeper portions of Machete ridge. Sons of the West is the free line of Icarus. It essentially follows almost all of Icarus, except for about a 50 ft section. If you liked Son of Dawn wall, you will likely enjoy this climb. It is more sustained and longer than Son of Dawn wall.
P1 - Go up the discontinuous and pocketed crack, trending up and right after slinging a tree branch that abuts the cliff. Anchor is one new-ish bolt, and a couple of relics.(5.8++ 80' or so)
P2 - Aid up the bolt ladder. There are couple of old relics, but mostly it is new bolts. End at two bolt belay with chains. (C0 and 85' or so)
P3 - Long slabby pitch with very hard to see bolts at times. Crux comes at the end, 5.11ish. Probably depends on what has broken off or is exfoliating at the time. End at chains below a small roof on the left (5.11ish and 100' or so)
P4 - Head right off the belay following bolts. Enter the V-slot. Worm your way up the stanky, loose, v-slot. Eventually find two bolt belay with chains. (5.8++ and 140'ish)
P5 - Slab up the rest of the V-slot aiming for shade under a MASSIVE flake. There are a bunch of bolts, 2 bolt belay with chains (5.8 and 180').
P6 - Casually romp your way to the summit ledge, and walk east until you find the rappel line off the back.
IMPORTANT NOTICE: since 2018 a pair of condors has been trying to nest on the south end of Machete Ridge. When this happens all routes including Pigeon Crack and extending west and south and around to The Hideout on the south face which includes Old Original are closed. More information is located here:
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