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Central - Left Ridge
5.5 YDS 4b French 13 Ewbanks IV+ UIAA 11 ZA MS 4a British
Avg: 2.4 from 5
votes
Routes in 7-Lewis
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Blazar TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Central - Left Corner TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Central - Left Overlap TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Central - Left Ridge S,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Central - Right Overlap TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Far Right Face TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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IceCube TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Obelix S,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Right Edge S,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Right Squeeze TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Salamander S,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Shelves - Wander Left TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Shelves - Wander Right TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Trail Slab - Face Right TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Trail Slab - Left Corner TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Trail Slab - Middle Prongs S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Trail Slab - Right Corner S,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Trail Slab - Right Gully TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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TS Short Squeeze TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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| Type: | Sport, TR, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | TR Sharon + Ken Roberts |
| Page Views: | 716 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | kenr on Nov 7, 2017 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Lots of thoughtful moves sustained in difficulty.
Up the ridge. When it seems to disappear, look up to find where it re-appears. Perhaps a bit of weaving, climbing some on left or right side of the crest of the ridge. Finish at the 2-bolt anchor shared with the route just left of this one.
warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
Up the ridge. When it seems to disappear, look up to find where it re-appears. Perhaps a bit of weaving, climbing some on left or right side of the crest of the ridge. Finish at the 2-bolt anchor shared with the route just left of this one.
warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
Location
A bit more than half-way up the dirt/rock slope that rises left-to-right from the Trail Slab up to the flat ledge of the Central section -- at the base of a vague ridge.
- - > see on this Photo
- - > see on this Photo
Protection
2-bolt anchor at top. For details about this anchor, see under Protection for the route Shelves - Wander Right.
Leading: 5 bolts as of 2018.
. . . (bolts + hangers are 3/8-inch Stainless steel).
There is a significant "run-out" section between two bolts in the middle where the climbing is easier.
note: The two anchor bolts are vertically offset, so cannot just connect two quickdraws for lower-off or top-rope as many American sport climbers are accustomed. Consider bringing a sling or climbing accessory cord with one or two carabiners or quick-links.
In case anchor hardware is damaged or missing or otherwise inadequate, recommend to carry a few feet of 8mm climbing accessory cord and at least one quick-link.
Top-Roping: Use the 2-bolt anchor for the route "Wander Right" -- Reaching this from above requires down-climbing steep-ish rock + dirt with lots of loose rock, so better to reach it by Leading this route.
For ideas about how to get access to set up top anchor, see Description page for this Lewis sector.
Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.
Leading: 5 bolts as of 2018.
. . . (bolts + hangers are 3/8-inch Stainless steel).
There is a significant "run-out" section between two bolts in the middle where the climbing is easier.
note: The two anchor bolts are vertically offset, so cannot just connect two quickdraws for lower-off or top-rope as many American sport climbers are accustomed. Consider bringing a sling or climbing accessory cord with one or two carabiners or quick-links.
In case anchor hardware is damaged or missing or otherwise inadequate, recommend to carry a few feet of 8mm climbing accessory cord and at least one quick-link.
Top-Roping: Use the 2-bolt anchor for the route "Wander Right" -- Reaching this from above requires down-climbing steep-ish rock + dirt with lots of loose rock, so better to reach it by Leading this route.
For ideas about how to get access to set up top anchor, see Description page for this Lewis sector.
Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.
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