PRINT: Rock Climb Empty Nest Syndrome, Southern Arizona

Empty Nest Syndrome

5.12b, Sport, 100 ft (30 m),

Avg: 3.2 from 6 votes
FA: Luke Bertelsen, Kemper Brightman - October 2017
Arizona > Southern Arizona > Dry Canyon > 5 - Bee Cave

Description

The only way to combat that sad and lonely feeling is to go ahead and leave the nest yourself. Climb past the anchors for Tammy to a small ledge with a BIG abandoned nest. Take flight up the arete that will immediately get your attention and stay in your face all the way to chains.

Smear, compress, heel hook, toehook, and get those feet really high. Leave no tricks left in the bag as you solve your way up the amazing arete that goes all the way to top of the wall.

This stellar extension almost got missed, but luckily we came back for a second look.

Location

This is the extension to Tammy Birkenstock Rides Again.

Protection

14 bolts to anchors with lower-offs

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Cory on the second ascent.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

adrian montaño
Tucson, AZ

5.12b

This one's a classic. Found good flow moving into the arete using a knee bar left of Tammy's anchor rather than fully standing on the nest's ledge.

Once you leave home, commit to it, there's plenty of fun to be had if you don't look back (or fall onto the ledge)

Glad you guys came back for a second look, the rock is quite enticing and the moves make the line full value. Jun 11, 2018

Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ

5.12b

Nice job, Adrian. I also never stood on the nest ledge. The one time I tried that I found it harder to re-establish on the arete from the ledge rather than just climbing straight onto it from below. Jun 12, 2018

Jon.R
Tucson, AZ

5.12-

for those of us who can't climb 5.12 sleeping, with a weight vest on (^^^), I used the hell out of the ledge. Oddly enough, I thought the hardest moves on the climb were on the headwall on Tammy Birkenstock. Jan 7, 2021